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Global Cotton Sustainability Conference | Meet the Speaker: Reuben Turner

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Global Cotton Sustainability Conference | Meet the Speaker: Reuben Turner

Well Studio on February 13, 2020

As of 20 March 2020, the Global Cotton Sustainability Conference in Lisbon moved from 9-11 June 2020, to be hosted on 2-4 March 2021. The decision to postpone was in response to the Covid-19 pandemic and its global impact on health and travel.

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In just a few months’ time, the 4th annual Global Cotton Sustainability Conference will take place in Lisbon. Farmers, brands, manufacturers, suppliers, NGOs, civil society organisations, agricultural experts and researchers will meet to collaborate on a more sustainable future for cotton.

Ahead of the conference, we caught up with the keynote speakers to gather their insights on key industry challenges and the innovations they are particularly excited about right now.

Meet Reuben Turner, Creative Partner and Founder, GOOD Agency

Reuben Turner has a long and distinguished background in marketing and advertising for social purpose. He is co-founder of London-based creative agency GOOD, one of the first agencies founded with social, ethical and environmental principles at its core.

As well as having worked with a number of leading NGOs, Reuben focuses on helping commercial brands understand, define and grow through social purpose, with current clients including Pernod Ricard, the Kingfisher group and leading fashion brand ESCADA.

How have approaches to defining and communicating an organisation’s purpose changed over time?

For a long time, an organisation’s “purpose’ was primarily about statements, manifestos or mood films. Although business leaders understood the need to have an organising principle that would make an emotional connection with stakeholders, staff and customers, they saw it primarily as a brand or positioning project. That led us to the era of “purposewash’, where brands would make emotive claims to stand for things or awkwardly link themselves to social issues.

How damaging is “purposewash’?

In an era of accelerate climate change, social division and structural inequality, such claims are rightly being seen as superficial, and it’s arguably added to the cynicism and distrust that so many people feel towards business. Simply put, we don’t have time for “purposewash’ anymore. It’s not solving the corporate world’s trust issue.

How can organisations get it right?

Today, there’s a new breed of business leaders who understand that statements are the start, not the end of the purpose journey. What actually matters is what businesses DO: the actions they take, the policies they change, the product innovations they invest in and the ways in which they help customers live healthier, more sustainable and equitable lives. These are all things that people care far more about than adverts.

Are there any innovative approaches to communicating purpose which you are particularly excited about right now?

I’ve been talking for a couple of years about the dynamic of “ally brands’ – these are brands that reject traditional leadership principles and think deeply how they can authentically be an ally to groups that need them. That could be working mothers struggling to make themselves heard at work or marginalised communities around the world. Ally brands grow their power and influence by seeing and sharing it. That’s counterintuitive to most brand thinkers but it’s a fundamentally important role in an unequal world.

You can hear Reuben Turner speak at the Global Cotton Sustainability Conference, which has been moved to 2-4 March 2021 in light of the global Covid-19 pandemic.

Find out more and register here.

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Register Now for the 2020 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference: Early Bird Offer Expires 15 February

Joe Morphet on February 12, 2020

 
Are you planning on joining BCI and partners for the 4th annual Global Cotton Sustainability Conference? From 9–11 June 2020, representatives from the entire cotton sector and beyond will meet in Lisbon to shape a more sustainable future for cotton.

This year, the conference will dial in on three key themes – Climate Action, Innovation Now and Social Sustainability– exploring how the sector can collaborate in these areas to create and drive collective impact.

Register before 15 February 2020 to take advantage of the early bird rates.

BCI Members also receive an additional 50% discount.

REGISTER HERE

Confirmed conference speakers include Futerra, The Renewal Workshop, GOOD Agency, IDH – The Sustainable Trade Initiative, Fair Labor Association, Change Agency, Cotton Inc., JFS and KAL. Hear from Reuben Turner, Creative Partner and Founder at GOOD Agency in the first of our Meet the Speaker blogs.

We still have a number of sponsorship opportunities available, from supporting cotton farmers’ travel to the event, to sponsoring the conference dinner. Please contact Events Officer Olivia Ji for more information.

Find out more and register for the conference at globalcotton.org.

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Better Cotton Welcomes More Than 210 New Members in Second Half of 2019

Joe Morphet on January 31, 2020

 
In the second half of 2019, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) welcomed more than 210 new members across its membership categories. BCI works with members across the cotton supply chain and beyond to ensure there is continuous demand and supply of Better Cotton – cotton produced by licensed BCI Farmers in line with the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria.

New members in the second half of 2019 included 32 retailers and brands from 13 countries, 179 suppliers and manufacturers and three civil society organisations.

The civil society organisations that joined BCI in the second half of the year are the Indira Priya Darsini Women’s Welfare Association (India), which addresses women’s empowerment, sustainable agriculture, child labour, skill development and training; the Sustainability Innovation Advocacy Foundation Pakistan, an organisation of researchers, scientists and policy scholars committed to sustainable development; and the Pakistan Rural Workers Social Welfare Organisation, which seeks to improve the socio-economic conditions of disadvantaged, vulnerable and rural communities.

BCI was also joined by a number of retailers and brands in the second half of 2019. New members are Acturus Capital SL (El Ganso), Amazon Services, AS Colour, Biniaraix Manufacturing SLU (Camper), Capri S.r.L, Centrale d’Achats Kidiliz, Debenhams, Decjuba, Drykorn Modevertriebs GMBH & Co., Factory X, General Pants Co, Hawes and Curtis, House of Anita Dongre Limited,Hunkem√∂ller, Indicode Jeans, J Barbour and Sons Ltd, J.O.G. Group B.V., JoJo Maman B√©b√©, Keen & Toms Holding Limited – Hypnos Beds, Kontoor Brands Inc., Lifestyle International Pvt Ltd, M&Co, Mamiye Brothers, Medanta Oy, Mulberry Company (Design) Ltd, Oasis and Warehouse Ltd, PWT Group A/S, River Island Clothing Co. Ltd, Schoolblazer, Shop Direct Home Shopping Limited, The Cotton Group SA/NV (B&C Collection) and The Warehouse Group Limited.

In total, 66 new retailers and brands joined BCI in 2019. Of these 66 new members, 52 had already started sourcing cotton as Better Cotton by the end of the year. This reinforces the trend we see, that more sustainable materials are an important part of any sustainability programme in the fashion and retail sector.

Retailer and brand member sourcing of cotton as “Better Cotton’ directly translates into increased investment in training for cotton farmers on more sustainable practices, due to BCI’sdemand–drivenfunding model. The total uptake of Better Cotton by BCI Retailer and Brand Members in 2019 surpassed 1.5 million metric tonnes – a record for BCI.

In addition to new retailers, new supplier and manufacturer members joined from 26 countries, including Bangladesh, Belgium, Egypt, Malaysia, Moldova, Netherlands, Peru, Thailand and Vietnam. Suppliers and manufacturers support the transformation of the cotton sector by joining BCI and sourcing increased volumes of Better Cotton for BCI Retailer and Brand Members – forming a critical link between Better Cotton supply and demand.

At the end of 2019, BCI had welcomed more than 400 new members across its membership categories, closing the year with a total of 1,842 members. You can find a full list of BCI Membershere.

If your organisation is interested in becoming a BCI Member and supporting more sustainable cotton farming practices around the globe, please visit themembership pageon the BCI website,or get in touch with theBCI Membership Team.

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Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Members Increase Better Cotton Sourcing by 40% in 2019

Joe Morphet on January 29, 2020

 
In 2019, 150 of the world’s most recognised retailers and brands collectively sourced more than 1.5 million metric tonnes of cotton as “Better Cotton’ – that is enough cotton to make approximately 1.5 billion pairs of jeans. The retailers, who are all members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), hit a new sourcing milestone and sent a clear signal to the market that there is increasing demand for more sustainably grown cotton.

Uptake1 of Better Cotton – cotton produced by licensed BCI Farmers in line with the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria – increased by 40% on the previous year. The volume sourced by BCI’s 150 Retailer and Brand Members in 2019 represents 6% of global cotton production2. By increasing sourcing commitments year-on-year and integrating Better Cotton into their sustainable sourcing strategies, BCI Retailer and Brand Members are driving demand for more sustainable cotton production worldwide.

Long-standing BCI Member Decathlon shared their thoughts on BCI and Better Cotton; ”While physical Better Cotton is not traceable to the end-product, what matters is that the funds channelled through BCI end up contributing to farmer training and expanding the network of cotton farmers who are improving their livelihoods, while protecting and restoring the environment.Decathlon has a target to source 100% more sustainable cotton by 2020 – this is a combination ofBetter Cotton together with organic and recycled cotton. This commitment has generatedahigh level of motivation internally at Decathlon. The BCI Team has also always been supportive of our journey, listeningto our needs and quickly responding to any challengeswe met,” says Nagy Bensid, Director Yarns and Fibres, Decathlon

BCI’s demand-driven funding model means that retailer and brand sourcing of Better Cotton directly translates into increased investment in training for cotton farmers on more sustainable practices. For example, in the 2018-19 cotton season, Retailer and Brand Members, public donors (DFAT) and IDH (the Sustainable Trade Initiative) contributed more than ‚Ǩ11 million to field-level projects, enabling more than 1.3 million cotton farmers in China, India, Pakistan, Turkey, Tajikistan and Mozambique to receive support, capacity building and training.3

BCI Supplier and Manufacturer Members also play a crucial role in increasing uptake as they bridge the gap between Better Cotton supply and demand. In 2019, suppliers and manufacturers sourced more than two million metric tonnes of cotton as Better Cotton, ensuring that there was enough supply available to meet retailers’ needs.

The retailers and brands, cotton traders and spinners who sourced the largest volumes of Better Cotton in 2019 will be revealed in the 2019 Better Cotton Leaderboard, launching at the 2020 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference in June. You can view the 2018 Leaderboard here.

Notes

1Uptake refers to the sourcing and purchasing of more sustainable cotton in a supply chain.By “sourcing cotton as Better Cotton,’ BCI is referring to the action taken by members when they place orders for cotton-containing products. It does not refer to the cotton present in the finished product. BCI uses a chain of custody model called Mass Balance whereby volumes of Better Cotton are tracked on an online sourcing platform. Better Cotton may be mixed with or replaced by conventional cotton in its journey from field to product, however, the volumes of Better Cotton claimed by members on the online platform never exceeds the volumes physically procured by spinners and traders.
2As per the global cotton production figures reported by ICAC. More information is availablehere.
3While the investment from BCI Retailer and Brand Members, public donors (DFAT), and IDH (the Sustainable Trade Initiative), mobilised through the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund, reached over 1.3 million farmers in the 2018-2019 season, the Better Cotton Initiativeis forecast to reach more than 2.5 million cotton farmers in the season. The final figures (including final licensing figures) will be released in spring 2020 in BCI’s 2019 Annual Report.
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Better Cotton Partners from Around the World Meet to Drive Sustainability in Cotton Farming

Joe Morphet on January 13, 2020

 
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) works with 69 field-level partners – Implementing Partners – to provide training, support and capacity building to cotton farmers around the world. From 13 to 15 January 2020, BCI Implementing Partners from more than 10 countries will gather in Siem Reap, Cambodia, for the annual BCI Implementing Partner Meeting & Symposium.

The annual event enables BCI’s partners to come together to share best practices in sustainable farming, learn from one another, collaborate and engage in valuable networking. This year, the event will focus on biodiversity and BCI’s biodiversity requirements, as defined by the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria. Attendees will be joined by cotton industry experts to discuss successes and challenges from the previous cotton season, as well as sustainable solutions and innovations for the coming season.

Expert guests include Gwendolyn Ellen, Founder of Agricultural Biodiversity Consulting; Vamshi Krishna, Senior Manager, Sustainable Agriculture at WWF-India; and Nan Zeng Ph.D, Climate and Agriculture Specialist at The Nature Conservancy.

Gwendolyn Ellen has over three decades of experience working in sustainable and organic agriculture. She has conducted research into entomology, botany, plant pathology and crop and soil science in multiple western agro-ecosystems. In addition, Gwendolyn has managed agricultural programmes focused on functional agricultural biodiversity for universities and the non-profit sector.

Vamshi Krishna is an expert in agricultural science, specialising in soil science and agricultural chemistry. He has worked with WWF-India for the past 13 years and played a key role in developing and demonstrating best management practices for the BCI Programme in India. Vamshi has also conducted research into soil profiles under different land use for the Central Research Institute for Dryland Agriculture.

Nan Zeng has spent more than a decade researching and working in the field of ecology. She has participated in many projects focused on ecosystem services, biodiversity protection and sustainable agriculture. As a certified coach in the Conservation Coach Network, Nan has previously led training sessions on biodiversity for nature reserves and NGOs.

Highlights and key learnings from the BCI 2020 Implementing Partner Meeting & Symposium will be shared following the event. If you have any questions, please contact BCI Training and Assurance Manager Graham Bruford at [email protected].

 

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Sustainable Cotton and Coffee Standards Seek to Align Impact Measurement and Reporting

Joe Morphet on December 11, 2019

 
There are many sustainability standards and public-sector initiatives that promote and drive sustainability within commodity sectors. However, there is no alignment on how data is collected and reported, which makes it difficult to have a clear view on the collective ability of these programmes to progress towards the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) on a global scale.

As the sustainability standards and initiatives increasingly focus on reliable data and credible reporting, more information is being required from producers on their environmental, social and economic performance. This leads to data collection becoming more time consuming and costly, while not necessarily adding any value for producers.

To bridge these gaps and improve efficiency, the Delta Project was developed to align the measurement and reporting on sustainability performance at farm level across sustainability standards and commodities. The project is a collaboration between the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the Global Coffee Platform (GCP), the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) and the International Coffee Association (ICO). It is funded by the ISEAL Innovation Fund.

”The Delta Project will ultimately lead to the creation of the “Delta Framework’ which aims to build a common approach and language for sustainability reporting that is linked to SDG targets,” says Eliane Augareils, Monitoring and Evaluation Manager at BCI.

The framework will feature a common set of environmental, social, and economic indicators to measure sustainability across the cotton and coffee commodity sectors, though the number of indicators will be limited to ensure that the framework remains manageable for companies and governments. The project will also provide examples of good and bad practices; tools and information to facilitate the framework’s adoption; and recommendations on how companies can communicate sustainability information to their customers.

”Coffee and cotton farmers will also be able to use the information produced for the framework to track their own progress, compare their performance to their peers and access more resources and data to develop better insights,” says Andreas Terhaer, Manager IT & Processes at GCP.

Standardising a framework and making it adaptable to a range of commodities will also foster the development of a common language for sustainability in agriculture and make it easier to collect and compare data. The results are expected to improve the quality of support and services farmers receive in the future, including better financing terms and more favourable government policies that promote sustainability in the agricultural sector.

“While the Delta Project currently focuses on two commodities, cotton and coffee, it is being designed to allow for further expansion. We’re really excited about its potential application to cocoa, soy, palm oil, sugar, and other commodity sectors in the future,”saysNorma Tregurtha,Policy and Outreach Director at ISEAL.

Learn more about the Delta Project.

The project is possible thanks to a grant from the ISEAL Innovations Fund, which is supported by the Swiss State Secretariat for Economic Affairs SECO.

Images
Left:© BCI / Paulo Escudeiro | BCI farm worker |Niassa Province, Mozambique, 2018.
Right:© Global Cotton Platform, 2019

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New Global Challenge Launched to Find Innovative Solutions to Sustainable Cotton Farming Challenges

Joe Morphet on December 2, 2019

 
Join the webinar onWednesday18 December to find out more. Register here.

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and IDH The Sustainable Trade Initiative (IDH), with the support of Dalberg Advisors, have launched the “Better Cotton Innovation Challenge’ – a global project seeking innovative ideas and solutions to improve sustainable cotton farming practices around the world.

The Innovation Challenge calls for innovators to submit disruptive solutions to enable effective and customised farmer training and efficient data collection.

Challenge One: Customised Training

We are looking for innovations that can help bring customised training on more sustainable farming practices to hundreds of thousands of cotton farmers across the globe.

Challenge Two: Data Collection

We are looking for solutions that could reduce the time and cost of farmer data collection to enable more efficient BCI licensing processes.

Solutions could incorporate machine learning, satellite-based analytics, image recognition or behavioural nudges, for example. The challenge team invites innovators from universities, research and development labs, start-ups and non-profit organisations to apply.Innovators will undergo three competitive application stages, receive mentorship from experts and gain access to networking opportunities with industry leaders. The finalists will have the opportunity to pilot test their solution on the ground with BCI Farmers.A prize fund of EUR €135,000 will be spilt between up to four winners whowill potentially have the opportunity to launch their innovation.

”BCI has scaled rapidly over the past decade, and we now work with our partners to provide training, support and capacity building to more than 2.2 million cotton farmers. We are always looking for new ideas and solutions to enable us to keep improving the BCI programme. This is the first time we have launched a global challenge! We encourage anyone who is sitting on an excellent idea, to come forward and submit your application.”–Cristina Martin Cuadrado, Programme Manager, BCI

”We have partnered with Dalberg Advisors on the Innovation Challenge to identify solutions which will help us deepen the impact the BCI programme has on cotton farmers and accelerate the adoption of sustainable cotton farming practices globally. –Pramit Chanda, Country Director, IDH.

The deadline to apply to the Better Cotton Innovation Challenge is Wednesday 15 January 2020. More information is available on the challenge website: bettercottonchallenge.org.

For interested applications, further details will be shared during a webinar on Wednesday18 December at 1:00PM IST. Register here.

About the Innovation Challenge Organisers

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) – a global not-for-profit – is the largest cotton sustainability programme in the world. The initiative aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. BCI partners with on-the-ground Implementing Partners to provide training on more sustainable farming practices to more than two million cotton farmers in 21 countries. In the 2017-18 cotton season, licenced BCI Farmers produced more than five million metric tonnes of “Better Cotton’ – accounting for 19% of global cotton production.

IDH, The Sustainable Trade Initiative (IDH) convenes companies, civil society organisations, governments and others in public-private partnerships in order to drive the joint design, co-funding and prototyping of new economically viable approaches. IDH is supported by multiple European governments, including the institutional donors: BUZA, SECO and DANIDA.

Dalberg Advisors is a global advisory firm that provides high-level strategic policy and investment advice to the leadership of key institutions, corporations and governments, working collaboratively to address pressing global problems and generate positive social impact. Dalberg works to build a more inclusive and sustainable world where all people, everywhere, can reach their fullest potential. Dalberg has a global presence, covering 25 countries across continents.

 

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Better Cotton Launches a Revised Version of a Key Component of the Standard – Communications Framework & Guidelines

Joe Morphet on November 19, 2019

 
Today, the Better Cotton Initiative is releasing a newly revised version of the Better Cotton Claims Framework. The updated Framework includes key changes that allow members to communicate about their sustainability efforts in a clear and compelling way, while at the same time, ensuring that the information is accurate and credible. The latest version includes a new type of sustainability claim for eligible Retailer and Brand Members. By linking farm-level results to contributions made by members through their sourcing of Better Cotton, impact claims demonstrate a member’s contribution to BCI’s global outcomes in relation to water, pesticides and profitability. Find out more about the new type of sustainability claim.

The Better Cotton Claims Framework is one of six components of the Better Cotton Standard System and equips members to make credible and positive claims about Better Cotton. The Framework is an important tool that supports BCI’s efforts to drive demand by building market awareness of the production of Better Cotton in partnership with BCI Members. We recognise that the need for members to communicate about sustainability is growing and evolving and that the Framework must evolve in parallel with growing market and consumer demands. We must also give members the guidance they need to report on their achievements in a way that is credible and transparent.

In addition to new impact claims, the BCI on-product mark – one-way Retailer and Brand Members can communicate directly to their customers – now references mass balance directly in the required BCI logo, and customers must be able to easily access information explaining that Better Cotton is not physically traceable to end products. It is important that customers wanting to know more about a member’s sustainability claims and about BCI should have access to more detailed information.

115 Retailer and Brand Members are currently communicating with their customers about Better Cotton, 76 of whom have set public targets to source a percentage of their cotton more sustainably, a requirement to use the on-product mark. We are encouraged by the contributions members are making to the sustainable future of cotton, and through the revised Better Cotton Claims Framework, BCI looks forward to the powerful ways members will share their efforts with customers and continue to build market awareness.

Access the Better Cotton Claims Framework V2.0.

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Better Cotton Farmers Achieve a Reduction in Water and Pesticide Use while Increasing Yields and Profits

Joe Morphet on October 23, 2019

 
BCI Farmers Demonstrate the Benefits of Implementing more Sustainable Farming Practices

In the 2017-18 cotton season*, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and its on-the-ground partners provided training on more sustainable farming practices to more than two million cotton farmers in 21 countries. Through training, tools and capacity building, BCI Farmers address and tackle pertinent issues in cotton production, from water use to pest management to Decent Work. By implementing the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria, farmers produce cotton in a way that is measurably better for themselves, the environment and farming communities.

Each cotton season, BCI and its partners collect data from BCI Farmers to monitor and assess a range of social, environmental and economic indicators. BCI Farmer results from the 2017-18 cotton season clearly demonstrate the benefits of implementing more sustainable practices around the world.Here are some key highlights from China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan and Turkey.

Social

  • In Turkey, 74% of BCI Farmers had advanced awareness of child labour issues.
  • In Tajikistan, 25% of BCI Farmers trained on health and safety practices were women.

Environmental

  • BCI Farmers in India used 10% less water than comparison farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in Pakistan used 17% less synthetic fertiliser than comparison farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in Tajikistan used 40% fewer pesticides than comparison farmers.

Economic

  • BCI Farmers in China achieved 14% higher yields than comparison farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in Pakistan achieved 40% higher profits than comparison farmers.

Access the2017-18 BCI Farmer Results to see how BCI is driving measurable improvements in cotton production.

Note about Comparison Farmers: BCI Farmer Results compare the country averages of key social, environmental and economic indicators achieved by licensed BCI Farmers to non-BCI farmers in the same geographic area who are not participating in the BCI programme. We refer to the latter farmers as Comparison Farmers.

*Cotton is sown and harvested in different annual cycles all over the world. For BCI, the 2017-18 cotton season harvest was completed towards the end of 2018. BCI Farmer results indicator data must be submitted to BCI within 12 weeks of the cotton harvest. All data then goes through a rigorous data cleaning and validation process before it can be published.

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