Learning First-Hand from Better Cotton Farmers in Pakistan: Q&A with Better Cotton’s Communications Coordinator

 
When BCI staff member Morgan Ferrar from the global communications team visited Pakistan, she saw how families’ lives are improving since cotton farmers have joined the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) programme, and how it can be the start of a very different future for communities.

What was the reason for your visit to Pakistan?

Supporting farmers is at the heart of our work and is the reason for BCI’s existence. In Pakistan, there are more than 90,000 licensed BCI Farmers. I visited two Punjabi districts, Muzaffargarh and Rahim Yar Khan, to meet some of these farmers and hear about their experiences and perspectives directly. I wanted to understand the unique challenges that these farmers face and learn about how they are adopting more sustainable agricultural practices to overcome these challenges.

There was a particular family that I was curious to meet. BCI Farmer Jam Muhammad Saleem, from rural village Jhangar Marha in Muzaffargarh, Punjab, was struggling to make ends meet. He saw no choice but for his 12-year-old son to leave school to work alongside him and his wife to tend their farm. But when Saleem started participating in BCI training sessions in 2017, organised by our field-level partner WWF-Pakistan, his outlook completely changed. This is a powerful example of how BCI works to eliminate child labour. I spent time with Saleem and his family and I asked them if they would like to share their story with the world. Stay tuned!

What are the challenges in cotton production in Pakistan that you learnt about?

One of the main challenges that Pakistani cotton farmers have experienced recently is extreme weather conditions caused by climate change. Specifically, low rainfall and rain falling at irregular times of the year. Low rainfall can lead to drought conditions and insufficient water for healthy growth. Dehydrated cotton plants, pushed beyond their capacity to cope with dry conditions, can shed their cotton bolls before the harvest, depleting farmers’ yields. Meanwhile, a lack of water can also bring new insect problems, as crop-destroying insects move from less hardy host plants to attack cotton instead.

In some instances, these challenges can foment farmers’ reluctance to allowing their children to attend school, fearing that without their child’s help on the farm, their crops will surely fail. To overcome resistance to children’s education, we seek to address and secure children’s rights to education, health, development and well-being through a series of structured training sessions that take place each season. Farmers learn how farm work impacts on children’s health and wellbeing, why children should be kept away from pesticides and hazardous tasks, and about the value of education as well as national labour laws.

Tell me about some of the farmers that you met and the experiences that they shared with you?

First, I met Muhammad Mustafa, who was so full of energy and was eager to tell me about the improvements in his life. Through the BCI programme, he had learnt new techniques to farm cotton in a more sustainable way by reducing his pesticide usage. This has saved Mustafa money that he would otherwise be using on expensive chemical pesticides, and because of this, he and his family have been able to move into a more spacious house. However, what Mustafa was most proud of was that because of his reduced spending on inputs, he can even now afford for his eldest daughter to attend college.

I then met Mustafa’s childhood friend, Shahid Mehmood, who is also a cotton farmer. Mehmood shared similar perspectives to Mustafa’s; his profit had increased by reducing the amount he spent on inputs, and because of this he could afford to send his children to school. Another BCI Farmer I met, Afzal Faisal, had enough additional income to create a new revenue stream on the side of cotton production; supplying solar panels to other farmers in the community.

The farmers I met in Pakistan are undeniably proud to be cotton farmers – that they can continue to do what they love, while increasing their yields and profits, using the additional income to create new revenue streams and send their children to school enriched their lives more than I could’ve possibly imagined. It was on this day that I truly gained first-hand perspective about the impact BCI is having at field-level in Pakistan.

What are the next steps?

We are incredibly proud of BCI Farmers like Saleem, Mustafa and Mehmood, who are committed to producing cotton in a more environmentally and socially sustainable way. In every country where Better Cotton is grown, there are many more successful BCI Farmers who have experiences and perspectives to share. At BCI, we are committed to amplifying these stories to a global audience to keep the momentum going and expand the BCI movement. This helps more farmers gain access to knowledge and training, building their capacity to implement sustainable agricultural practices. You can learn more about the experiences of BCI Farmers here.

Morgan Ferrar with BCI Farmer Nasreem Bibi. Rahim Yar Khan, Punjab, Pakistan. 2018.

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Five Brands and One Civil Society Organisation Have Joined Better Cotton, Showing Their Support to Cotton Farmers Around the Globe

During Q3 2018, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) welcomed Action Service & Distributie B.V.(the Netherlands), Deckers Outdoor Corporation (United States), El Corte Inglés (Spain), J P Boden Ltd.(United Kingdom), and Nederlandse dassenfabriek Micro Verkoop B.V. (the Netherlands) asthe newest Retailer and Brand Members to join BCI.

BCI also welcomed Gram Unnati Foundation (India) as the newest BCI Civil Society Member.

At the end of Q3 2018, more than 190 new organisations (across all BCI membership categories) had joined BCI, taking total membership to more than 1,390 members. You can find all BCI Members here.

What it means to be a BCI Retailer and Brand Member

BCI Retailer and Brand Members are committed to supporting a more sustainable future for cotton production. They pay a fee to BCI based on the amount of cotton they sourceas Better Cotton*.This fee is invested into training 1.6 million BCI Farmers on more sustainable agricultural practices like reducing inputs (water, pesticides) and addressing gender inequality and child labour issues.

What it means to be a BCI Civil Society Member
Civil Society Members are progressive not-for-profit organisations who are taking decisive steps towards securing a more sustainable future for cotton production by partnering with the Better Cotton Initiative.

*BCI uses a supply chain model called Mass Balance. As cotton moves through the supply chain and is converted into different products (for example, yarn, fabric and garments), credits are also passed along the supply chain. These creditsrepresentvolumes of Better Cotton a BCI Retailer or Brand Member has ordered. We define this as “sourcing’ Better Cotton. Sourcing volumes are tracked by BCI’s online sourcing platform. Physically traceable Better Cotton does not end up in the hands of the retailer that placed the order; however, the farmer benefits from the demand for Better Cotton in equivalent volumes to that “sourced’. Remember, knowing where the Better Cotton ends up does not benefit BCI Farmers. A brand cannot claim that a product they sell physically contains Better Cotton.

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Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund Reaches 1 Million Farmers

 
The Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund (Better Cotton GIF),managed in partnership with the Sustainable Trade Initiative (IDH), makes strategic investments into Better Cotton projects to support the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in reaching its 2020 targets.

In the 2017-18 cotton season, the Better Cotton GIF invested ‚Ǩ9.4 million in more sustainable cotton farming practices in China, India, Mozambique, Pakistan, Senegal, Tajikistan and Turkey – reaching and training over one million cotton farmers*.

The Better Cotton GIF Annual Report provides insight into the Funds activities to reach this milestone, with stories from BCI’s Implementing Partners and BCI Farmers in the seven cotton-producing countries.

Access the reporthere.

What is the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund?

The Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund (Better Cotton GIF) was launched in 2016, by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and the Sustainable Trade Initiative (IDH).The Better Cotton GIF is governed by the BCI Council, in partnership with BCI Retailer and Brand Members, Civil Society Members and government bodies. IDH is the official fund manager, as well as an important funder.In the 2017-18 cotton season, the Better Cotton GIF directly invested €6.4 million in field-level programmes and mobilised an additional €3 million in co-funding from partners, resulting in a total portfolio value of €9.4 million.

*While the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund reached over one million farmers in the 2017-2018 season, the Better Cotton Initiativeis forecast to reach and train a total of 1.7 million cotton farmers in the season. The final figures will be released in BCI’s 2018 Annual Report.

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Driving Change Is a Joint Effort: Call for 2019 Conference Speakers

 
BCI is taking a new approach to our 2019 annual conference. Transformative change can only happen though collaboration, so we are inviting other cotton sustainability standards and initiatives to participate in shaping the agenda to make the event an enriching experience for all attendees. We have changed the name of the conference to Global Cotton Sustainability Conferenceto reflect this inclusive approach. We are excited to be working with the following organisations in developing the conference agenda: Associação Brasileira dos Produtores de Algodão (ABRAPA), Cotton Australia, Cotton Made in Africa (CMiA), Fairtrade, Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange.

Crispin Argento,Executive Director, OCA believes that, ”Lasting impact and transformational change in sustainable cotton is achieved through collaboration, sector alignment and knowledge sharing. OCA is excited to work with BCI and other standards to improve the livelihoods of 100 million farming households globally and double-down on our collective impact on the environment“.

In addition to this collaboration, we are also launching aCall for Speakers where the cotton sector is invited to submit recommendations for conference speakers and topics. Our goal is to curate exceptional content, generate debate and ensure that the event is an opportunity to enhance attendees’ knowledge and expertise. You can contribute your ideas through this brief online survey. Please share your thoughts with us by 15 December 2018. Topics can range from presenting evidence-based approaches, to sharing unique viewpoints that have not been included in previous conferences.

We look forward to seeing you in Shanghai next June!

Event details:

2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference

Driving Change from Field to Fashion

Shanghai, China |11 – 13 June 2019

11 June: BCI Annual Member Meeting

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Better Cotton Field Trips Connect the Cotton Sector

BCI hosts annual field trips to India, Pakistan, Turkey and the USA – creating an open and transparent space where members can meet directly with licensed BCI Farmers and Implementing Partners. BCI Farmers and Implementing Partners have a platform to highlight the successes and challenges of more sustainable cotton production, and members are able to see first-hand the sustainable practices that are being implemented on the ground.

This year, BCI has hosted trips in Pakistan and the USA, with a forthcoming trip in India planned for late November.

USA |13 – 14 September 2018

A total of 50 attendees from across the cotton supply chain were able to experience cotton agriculture in West Texas, USA. Attendees visited two cotton farms and the Quarterway Cotton Gin, dissected cotton plants, and toured the Texas Tech University Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute. Representatives from American Eagle Outfitters, Ann Inc., IKEA, J. Crew, Ralph Lauren, C&A Mexico, Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture, and Texas Alliance for Water Conservation were among those who attended.

”The tour was very educational and informative. I especially enjoyed the research institute tour, as well as hearing directly from the farmers.” – Anonymous.

Pakistan |10 October 2018

Representatives from Bedding House, Hennes & Mauritz AB, the International Labour Organization, Lindex AB, Louis Dreyfus Company and Decathlon SA were amongst those who attended the BCI Field Trip to Matiari, Pakistan, to see how farmers are overcoming cotton production challenges in the region. BCI’s Implementing Partner CABI-CWA organised a farmer meeting so that BCI Farmers could share their success stories and examples of best practice with the group. After a visit to the cotton fields, attendees visited a nearby gin.

”We are thankful to BCI for organising such a great workshop and field trip. The trip provided us with lots of information and really showed BCI’s dedication and the achievements they have made over the last few the years. We hope such events will continue.”– Lindex.

It’s not too late to join us for a BCI Field Trip!

Our final trip of the year is taking place in Maharashtra, India, on 27 – 29 November. Find out more and register here.

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Sharing Progressive Environmental Practices Globally

Climate change poses a real and growing threat for the world’s cotton farmers, many of whom cultivate their crops in countries that are particularly vulnerable to climate risks. Irregular rainfall, in particular, creates a steep challenge, with farmers under pressure to use less water to grow a traditionally water-intensive crop.

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Helping Farmers Promote Decent Work

All workers have the right to decent work – work that offers fair pay, security and equal opportunities for learning and progression, in an environment where people feel safe, respected, and able to express their concerns or negotiate better conditions.

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Q&A with Spectrum International

Spectrum International is a BCI Supplier and Manufacturer Member, Implementing Partner and BCI Council Member. We caught up with CEO, Amit Shah, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Tell us about your membership to BCI and how the partnership began.

Spectrum has been in the sustainability space since 1998, starting with organic farming in India. We were introduced to the Better Cotton Initiative in 2011, and Spectrum subsequently became a local partner to an existing BCI Implementing Partner. We had duel expertise of running farm projects and also procuring materials and channelling them into the supply chains of various brands. This made the partnership with BCI a great fit. In 2013, we became a BCI Supplier and Manufacturer Member, as well as an Implementing Partner. As we only sell sustainable products and services, that put us in a unique position to association ourselves with BCI, and again, the progression to membership seemed natural. I felt that Spectrum International could also contribute further to BCI by becoming a member of the BCI Council, and that was the next step we took. I feel strongly about the way our industry has operated for many decades, with such a long supply chain that skews the focus on core raw materials and the producers. The passion to change that approach drives me to do what I do.

 

Spectrum plays multiple roles in further BCI’s agenda, as a Supplier and Manufacturer Member, an Implementing Partner and a Council Member. Why have you chosen to be so heavily involved?

Spectrum International is part of a group that has been within the textiles industry for almost 79 years. Over the past two decades, we made sustainability not just a core philosophy but also a business driver in terms of shaping where the company goes. In 1998, this wasn’t common for companies and it wasn’t always easy, but as we progressed, we found that we gained a unique position within the supply chain. We’ve worked across ginning, spinning and farming, working with smallholder farmers in India to grow various types of sustainable fibres. As we also cover garment manufacturing, we understand what brands and retailers expect from their suppliers. We felt that with this broad knowledge and experience, representation on the BCI Council would give us a chance to represent the BCI Supplier and Manufacture Members in a fair and just manner.

 

In what ways do you communicate with your customers about Spectrum’s commitment to sustainability, and why is this important?

First and foremost, is our public commitment to trade only sustainable textiles. Over time, this had led our customers to perceive us a specialist. All retailers and brands want to have a long term, reliable and committed supply partner, especially with the sustainability objectives they have today. They need to know that there are suppliers out there who can help them to meet their targets. This is only possible if those suppliers’ commitments are public and communicated well. We highlight our commitments by sharing success stories from cotton farmers and farms. When customers visit farms managed by us, they can see the projects we run and how they are having a positive impact on farmers, the environment and communities. We also communicate via our website, at conferences and trade shows, via media and social media. However, at the heart of all this lies the fact that our customers have confidence that they have a long-term partner who can match their vision with regards to their sustainability targets.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

 

Image© 2017 Spectrum International Pvt. Ltd.

 

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Communicating Commitments to Sustainable Sourcing: Q&A with Gap Inc.

Gap Inc. is a BCI Retailer and Brand Member. We caught up with Bonnie Abrams, Senior Director of Global Brand Management, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Can you tell us why Gap decided to become a member of BCI and what your public target for sourcing more sustainable cotton is?

BCI was an important initiative for Gap to become involved with. Gap as an organisation has looked at sustainability and how to create garments in a thoughtful way since day one, not because of public demand or marketing purposes, but because it was the right thing for our company to do and it mattered to the founders. As Gap has become a much larger brand, our scale and scope has also increased, and we need to make sure we are being as sustainable as possible. That could be from how much water we use to produce our denim to how we source our cotton. Becoming a member of BCI was a natural step for us. We realised that the amount of cotton we use is significant, and any opportunity we have to become more sustainable has a significant impact. Our goal now is to source 100% of our cotton from more sustainable sources by 2021.

 

In 2017, Gap Inc. opened a pop-up store in New York with a focus on sustainability – can you tell us more about the initiative and the response it received?

Internally, Gap as a brand has been talking about how we can be more sustainable and thoughtful for 50 years, and we’ve had great opportunities to make major strides in the past few years. We realised that we have been talking about sustainability internally, but we haven’t really shared this with our consumers. Our pop-up store came in the year when we announced our goals with BCI and to source 100% of our cotton as more sustainable by 2021. We wanted to start sharing our work and educating our consumers. It’s something that is important for our consumers, and it’s something they care about. We did this with our pop-up store in New York City, which opened next to one of our flagship stores. The space was dedicated to our sustainability programmes including Better Cotton, the wash-well initiative, and at that time, we had a recycled denim collection. It was very successful. Consumers wanted to know more and learn more. They were also very surprised that Gap was doing this. It inspired us as a brand to go out in a bigger way with sustainable practices and goals. We started sharing this messaging in all stores. This has driven us to not only do this once – we are really looking to be consistent with this message to the consumer always. In fall 2018, you will see in our national campaigns that we address sustainability in a more overt way than we have ever done. We think it’s important that if you have goals, you should communicate them, go out to the public with them and be accountable for reaching them.

 

Do you have plans for further sustainability-focused communications in the future?

2018 marks the first year in which we are going to go out in a bigger way with our sustainability communications. We know these issues are important to our consumers, they want to know more, and they want to align with brands who share their personal values. As of 2018, you’ll see permanent sustainability messaging within Gap stores, highlighting our involvement with BCI, wash-well denim and recycling initiatives, and why these are important to us. We’ll be communicating online too, sharing information via social media and our national advertising campaigns, so that consumers can learn more about our programmes.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

 

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Better Cotton Joins M&S in New Podcast Series

BCI Retailer and Brand Member M&S has launched a new behind-the-scenes podcast series which explores topics such as sustainability and the history of the high street.

In the first episode, BCI’s COO Lena Staafgard joins M&S’s Director of Plan A, Mike Barry, to discuss the sustainable future of cotton.

Listen to the podcast below.Access the M&S podcast series here.

 

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Q&A with Alliance for Water Stewardship

Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) is Member and Partner of BCI. We caught up with CEO, Adrian Sym, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Can you tell us about Alliance for Water Stewardship’s BCI Membership and the reciprocal relationship the two standards have?

Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) has had reciprocal membership with BCI for a number of years (BCI is also a member of AWS). It’s clear that we should be working very closely together; we are both standard systems and networks. We are both members of the ISEAL Alliance, and we share members. We also share some innovative approaches to standard system development. Adding to that, cotton is such a critical crop and water use is a critical factor in cotton production. It really makes sense for AWS to be a member of BCI and for both standards to work closely.

 

AWS is a global membership-based organisation which brings other organisations together to address a common goal. Can you share some thoughts on collaboration and cross sector partnerships?

To begin with, we define water stewardship in terms of what it should achieve. That means social, environmental and economic benefits and how those are achieved. You can’t address water on a farm-by-farm or household-by-household basis – it is a resource that is inherently shared. Our definition of water stewardship describes the importance of site and catchment-based action, emphasising the need to work in collaboration in areas where we are sharing this vital resource. Collaboration is therefore hardwired into water stewardship – it is part of our DNA. From day one of our efforts to develop and roll out the standard, the explicit objective to collaborate and support existing initiatives has been very clear. We are not trying to replace other standards or initiatives, we are here to support them to do more on water, where water is a critical factor. It’s for that reason that I’m really pleased we’ve been able to input into the revision of the Principles and Criteria component of the Better Cotton Standard System. We are now working alongside BCI and Helvetas to help roll out the new water stewardship approach in India, Pakistan, China, Tajikistan and Mozambique.

 

What would you say are the most important way you communicate with your members and stakeholders about using water in an environmentally sustainable way?

To a large extent, communication really goes to the heart of standard systems. At AWS, we are trying to establish a community that shares its knowledge on water stewardship, where community members can discuss issues and challenges, and share experiences, ideas and lessons in a safe environment. We want the dynamic of our community to be fluid. We don’t operate a linear “proposal and response’ way of exchanging information, but rather, our members have ownership of the learning agenda as well – they don’t have to rely on the few people who work for AWS. Our members are actively engaged in sharing their knowledge and ideas, and I think that leads to some interesting communication. I’m less interested in success stories. We all know this is hard, and sustainable water use is not something we are going to achieve and then pack up and go home – it’s something we are always going to need to work on. We’re interested in taking learnings and using them to create easier processes in the future. We want to understand the “how’ and then scale this up.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

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Q&A with adidas

adidas has been a BCI Retailer and Brand Member since 2010. We caught up with Ebru Gencoglu, Senior Manager, Merchandising and Sustainability, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

adidas is close to reaching its target of sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources. How has BCI supported adidas in reaching this ambitious target?

BCI and adidas have worked closely from the beginning to reach this ambitious goal. BCI has engaged actors throughout the supply chain to enable the right amount of supply in the right locations. Led by clearly defined KPIs, BCI has kept the focus on expanding the supply of Better Cotton. This has helped our suppliers to source cotton as Better Cotton, which allowed us to ramp up sourcing in a short period of time.

 

How does adidas’ Better Cotton sourcing target form part of the organisations’ broader sustainability strategy?

We believe that through sport, we have the power to change lives. And we do this every day as a company – by empowering people to live an active life, by teaching life skills through sport, and by creating sustainable products. Our sustainability strategy is deeply rooted in this core belief and as such, our strategic priorities for 2020 are based on products and people. As part of our product ambitions, we strive to develop innovative materials and processes that optimise our environmental impact. We are committed to steadily increasing the volumes of more sustainable materials we source. The Better Cotton Initiative is one example of how we plan to achieve this.

 

Why is it important for adidas to communicate with its customers about its commitments to Better Cotton?

As a large organisation, we have the opportunity – the obligation and capability – to change how things are done. We are a company that integrates sustainability into our business model. It is important for us that our consumers are clear about our commitment and how we are delivering it.

 

As a pioneering BCI Member, what key sustainability changes have you seen the industry address over the past 10 years?

Things have changed quickly over the past several years. Consumers are interested and demanding that we take action when it comes to both social and environmental compliance. We are able to collaborate more and more with supply chain players to innovate and find new solutions. Transparency in the supply chain also keeps improving, enabling companies to choose the right business partners. We are still at the beginning of a long journey when it comes to sustainability. We need to recognise that this is not a sprint but a marathon. Setting the right foundation, however, will be essential to reaching the finishing line.

 

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