Last week, Better Cotton welcomed more than 450 participants from 50 countries to the Better Cotton Conference in Malmö, Sweden and online. Together, we examined the overarching conference theme of climate action through a variety of lenses, including gender, smallholder livelihoods, traceability and sustainable finance.
Over two days, we heard from more than 70 inspiring speakers representing the entire cotton supply chain – from Better Cotton Farmers to organisations such as Forum for the Future, Walmart, IKEA, Marks and Spencer, Tony’s Chocolonely, Rainforest Alliance, WWF and many more.
We had a fantastic few days of collaboration, challenging ideas and passion. From Safia Minney’s keynote address that spotlighted issues in the fashion industry and the opportunities for businesses to move towards a regenerative model, to our breakout panel on measuring and reporting on impact that sparked a dynamic discussion on how the cotton industry can align around the right metrics, we covered a lot of ground in a short timeframe.
There to capture the discussions visually was the graphic artist Carlotta Cataldi, who created wonderful illustrations that showcase the depth and breadth of topics covered.
We want to say a huge thank you to our sponsors – ChainPoint, Cotton Brazil, Gildan, JFS SAN, Louis Dreyfus Company, Spectrum and Supima –speakers, attendees, the organising team, our event partners Altitude Meetings, and Better Cotton staff who made the Better Cotton Conference possible.
The conference may be over, but let’s keep the momentum going as we work together to drive climate action in cotton.
The voting period for the Better Cotton 2022 Council Election is now open.
In this year’s election there are four seats up for election. After several months of candidate and member interaction and campaigning, Better Cotton Members can now vote for their Council representatives.
Voting will remain open until midnight on Tuesday, 5 July 2022.
Voting details have been shared with members, but if you have questions, please reach out to [email protected].
Members can also interact with Council candidates via one of the following dedicated discussion groups.
Better Cotton’s future is shaped by the Better Cotton Council, an elected board that drives cotton towards a truly sustainable future. The Council sits at the centre of the organisation and is responsible for Better Cotton’s strategic direction. Together, Council Members shape the policy that ultimately helps to fulfil our mission: to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.
There is just one day left to register to attend the 2022 Better Cotton Conference online. Don’t miss out! Register by 5pm CEST on Tuesday 21 June to secure your spot.
The packed two-day conference includes a series of keynotes led by Better Cotton Farmers and Members, as well as plenaries and breakout sessions on the following topics:
Climate change capacity building
Smallholder livelihoods
Breakthrough approaches
Women taking climate action
Impact investing and sustainable finance
Smallholder and large farm panels
Traceability in cotton
Regenerative agriculture
Landscape approaches
Due diligence in cotton
The evolving legislative landscape
Ecosystem service payments
Sustainable sourcing targets
Measuring and reporting on impact
And more
The conference will bring the entire cotton sector together on 22 & 23 June 2022 in Malmö, Sweden and online, to explore the theme of Climate Action + Cotton and collaborate on a more sustainable future for the cotton sector.
Join us to engage in insightful sessions, dynamic dialogue and an opportunity to meet face to face with peers once again.
This article was first published by Devex on 14 June 2022.
News that the world has a “50:50” chance of exceeding the 1.5 degrees Celsius mark in the next five years is a wake-up call to the world. If you’re a cotton farmer struggling with drought in South Africa or with bollworm — which is linked to high rainfall — in Punjab, the prospect of a more erratic climate comes as unwelcome news.
As across the global agricultural landscape, the cotton industry has been investing heavily in building its climate resilience for some years now. Research into drought-tolerant breeds is continuing apace, for instance, as are tools for assessing and planning for future climate risks.
Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton by Jay Louvion.
Awareness is one thing, but the ability to act is another. An estimated 350 million people currently rely on cotton production for their livelihoods, half of whom face high or very high exposure to climate risk. Of these, most are smallholders, who, even if they wanted to act on climate change, lack the economic means or market incentives to do so.
Loud as the climate alarm bells ring and as much as global development agencies fret, transitioning agriculture onto a sustainable footing simply won’t happen without smallholder buy-in. As people who depend on the Earth’s productivity for their livelihoods, farmers have more incentive to steward the natural environment than anyone.
But the returns on climate-friendly agriculture need to pay clearly, quickly, and fairly. On the first two, there is an increasingly compelling case to be made. In India, for example, we have been able to show that over a season, Better Cotton Initiative farmers’ profits were 24% higher, while using a lower volume of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, than those not implementing more sustainable practices.
Compared to the vicissitudes of the market, multiyear purchasing guarantees from large buyers present a far more attractive prospect for agricultural producers looking to transition. In Brazil, for example, the U.S. commodity trader Bunge offers long-term financing to soybean producers that have robust anti-deforestation policies in place. However, opportunities for smallholders to negotiate such complex contractual arrangements is difficult, if not impossible.
The same hurdle presents itself with conventional carbon finance projects. Take carbon offsetting, for example. On paper, climate-smart farmers that promote carbon-reducing practices such as cover cropping and reducing tillage are well positioned to sell credits. Yet, proving the climate efficacy of such efforts is by no means straightforward. And, even if a farmer can, registering on a carbon credit marketplace such as Nori or even locating a relevant credit programme presents a challenge.
But imagine that wasn’t the case. Imagine, instead, a world in which development agencies, multilateral banks, finance institutions, commercial buyers, and philanthropists come together to devise funding mechanisms that meet the financing needs of small farmers — conservatively estimated at $240 billion per year.
Problem solved, right? Regrettably, no. Clear and quick as climate-positive farming returns may one day become, if they are not distributed fairly, then climate transition in agriculture is dead in the water before it gets going.
Of course, “fairness” is a subjective term. By any measure, however, ensuring it includes the 95% of farmers around the world who operate on less than 5 hectares has to be central. Likewise, guaranteeing equal access and opportunities within this grouping of some 570 million agricultural households is every bit as critical.
Gender injustice presents the starkest example. In many agricultural regions, especially in the global south, women farmers lack formal rights, such as land ownership, and struggle to access credit, training, and other key support mechanisms. This is despite exercising a significant influence over farming decisions. In India and Pakistan, for instance, the majority of cotton farm workers are female.
Producers, buyers, and other key players within the agricultural sector can and must seek ways of incorporating issues of social justice and inclusivity into their climate efforts. Without deliberative action, it simply won’t happen. Even then, our experience at Better Cotton, where we have been prioritizing gender equality for a number of years now, suggests change takes time.
Climate-positive farming is an agricultural issue, characterized by technological innovation and smart practices. It’s also a finance issue, for which a huge increase in capital investment is needed. But, at its heart, it is a justice issue. Bringing marginalized farmer groups into the fold is not only the right thing to do; it is a condition of effective climate action in agriculture.
Modern industrial agriculture has seen yields spike. But its emphasis on high capital expenditure and fossil fuel-based inputs has also seen economic inequality and environmental damage become baked into the system. Responding to the urgent threat of climate change presents an opportunity to resolve these systemic failings.
We are delighted to launch the Better Cotton 2021 Annual Report which highlights key updates, successes and challenges from the past year and cotton season.
In the report, we share that:
In the 2020-21 cotton season, the Better Cotton programme reached more than 2.9 million cotton farmers in 26 countries.
2.2 million licensed farmers in 24 countries grew 4.7 million tonnes of Better Cotton – this accounted for 20% of global cotton production.
In 2021, Better Cotton’s membership base surpassed 2,400 members in 63 countries.
Retailer and Brand Members sourced 2.5 million tonnes of Better Cotton – accounting for 10% of global cotton production.
We can all agree that 2021 was a challenging year, amid the Covid-19 pandemic, and growing climate and biodiversity challenges. However, we remained steadfast in our commitment and purpose to promote more sustainable cotton production. Of the year’s many highlights, I’m proud to share that the Better Cotton programme continued to grow and deliver impact where it mattered most, and as of 2021, we can say that Better Cotton is mainstream – representing more than 20% of global cotton production.
Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton
In the report, we dive into the launch of our ambitious 2030 Strategy, our rebrand, Better Cotton’s financials and governance, and key focus areas and priorities for Better Cotton in 2021, sharing the developments we’ve made so far and plans to 2030.
Taking Climate Action
As well as agriculture having a role to play in reducing emissions, it also has the potential to store large quantities of atmospheric carbon in the soil. In 2021, we launched our climate mitigation target: by 2030, we aim to reduce greenhouse gas emissions per tonne of Better Cotton produced by 50% (compared to 2017 baseline).
Developing a Traceability Solution
We’ve developed a comprehensive four-year activity plan and detailed budget for introducing traceability into the Better Cotton network. Our top priority is to find ways to make this work in a way that delivers what consumers want in terms of traceability and what farmers need to achieve a thriving market.
Focus on Farmer Centricity
Without farmers, there would be no Better Cotton. In 2021, we invested time and resources into research to better understand what farmers need and want, whether Better Cotton is delivering on this, and how we can further improve our offering for farmers and their communities.
There are just two weeks to go until we bring our global cotton community together at the Better Cotton Conference in Malmö, Sweden and online. In-person registrations close on Wednesday 8 June at 17:00 CEST and we encourage you to purchase your tickets today to secure your place. Virtual registration remains open until Tuesday 20 June, 17:00 CEST.
We have a fantastic line-up of keynote speakers and panellists, including Better Cotton Farmers and representatives from across the cotton sector and beyond. You can look forward to hearing insights from the following organisations:
Tony’s Chocolonely Fashion Declares & People Tree EU Commission FAO WWF Textile Exchange ABRAPA GAP UNDP Landscape Finance Lab Laudes Foundation Quantis Vardeman Farms Partnership
Rainforest Alliance IKEA Solidaridad IDH, The Sustainable Trade Initiative FairTrade Fair Capital Lupin Foundation CommonLand Foundation Walmart Cotton Australia British International Investments
Forum for the Future Somnath Farmer Producer Organisation ISEAL Pesticide Action Network UK Chainpoint Anthesis Group Farmer Connect Delta Project Wageningen University JFS Group Rabobank
Networking and Social Events
As well as a variety of meetings taking place around the conference, in-person attendees can also look forward to the following networking and social events:
Welcome Reception: Tuesday 21 June, 18:00 – 20:00 CEST Join us for a welcome reception on a rooftop bar to kick start the conference.
Networking Breakfasts: Wednesday 22 & Thursday 23 June, 08:00 – 09:00 CEST Our morning networking sessions will provide a great opportunity to meet with peers before the conference sessions begin.
Better Cotton Conference Dinner: Wednesday 22 June, 19:30 – 23:00 CEST Experience a summer evening in Sweden with live music entertainment and a three-course meal in a beautifully rustic venue.
Registration for these events is essential and can be selected during your ticket purchase.
Join us to engage in insightful sessions, dynamic dialogue and an opportunity to meet face to face with peers once again.
Join Better Cotton’s Alia Malik, Senior Director of Data and Traceability, and other guest speakers on Wednesday 25 May for ‘Cotton’s Hidden Voices’, hosted by University of Leeds. The event will explore the complex, challenging and globally important history, production and consumption of cotton.
From field to fabric: cotton goes through a complex production process and is touched by many different hands in the supply chain before it can be transformed into the clothes you wear.
Join us to explore the environmental and social challenges of cotton production, and the complexity and diversity of cotton farming, which underpins the fashion industry. We’ll shine a light on some of the common sustainability challenges we hear about the fashion industry, before looking at the importance of cotton for farmers and their families. We’ll share insights from workers in the global supply chain, and examine what responsible consumption looks like for Western consumers, alongside the demands of fast fashion.
Speakers: Dr Mark Sumner (University of Leeds), Alia Malik (Better Cotton), Allan Williams (Cotton Research and Development Corporation – Australian Cotton)
With just seven weeks to go until the Better Cotton Conference takes place in Malmö, Sweden and online, we are excited to share details on more inspiring speakers who will be joining us!
Join us and hear from speakers across the entire cotton supply chain, from cotton farmers to retail giants, including:
Anita Chester, Head of Materials | Laudes Foundation
You can also look forward to thought-provoking sessions in collaboration with:
EU Commission
FAO
WWF
Textile Exchange
Forest Stewardship Council
Rainforest Alliance
Solidaridad
IDH, The Sustainable Trade Initiative
Fairtrade
Fair Capital
Lupin
ISEAL
Pesticide Action Network (PAN) UK
Chainpoint
Anthesis Group
Farmer Connect
Delta Project
Wageningen University
GAP-UNDP
Commonland
Landscape Finance Lab
And more
The conference will bring the entire cotton sector together on 22 & 23 June 2022 in Malmö, Sweden and online, to explore the theme of Climate Action + Cotton and collaborate on a more sustainable future for the cotton sector.
Thank you to our conference sponsors. We have a variety of sponsorship packages available, please contact [email protected] for more information.
In an exclusive interview with Just Style, Better Cotton’s Chief Operating Officer, Lena Staafgard, discusses Better Cotton’s 2030 strategy, why soil health is so important, and the future of the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund.
“We’ve taken the next natural step which is accelerating the rate of change and deepening our impact. So, for the first time we’re setting impact targets for the Better Cotton community. By 2030 we will deliver, through collaborations with our partners and members, tangible change across a number of critical areas for agriculture.” – Lena Staafgard, COO, Better Cotton.
Better Cotton launched its ambitious 2030 Strategy and the first of five impact targets at the end of 2021. Climate change mitigation and adaptation, smallholder livelihoods, soil health, women’s empowerment and pesticide use are critical focal areas where Better Cotton aims to deepen impact over the next decade.
Achieving measurable change at field level will require continued collaboration and commitment from all Better Cotton Members and Programme Partners from across the cotton sector. While all members play their part in contributing to more sustainable practices in cotton farming, Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Members drive progress through increased sourcing of more sustainable cotton.
In 2021, 260 of the world’s best-known retailers and brands collectively sourced 2.5 million tonnes of Better Cotton – a record for Better Cotton and the industry. This accounts for 10% of global cotton production1 and represents a 47% increase on 2020 sourcing volumes. This result also marks the end of Better Cotton’s mainstreaming development phase, and transition to its transformation phase.
Better Cotton’s demand driven funding model means that retailer and brand sourcing of Better Cotton directly translates into increased investment in training on better farming practices for more than 2.7 million cotton producers around the word. By integrating Better Cotton into their raw material sourcing strategies, Better Cotton Members are driving demand for more sustainable farming practices worldwide.
IKEA is one of the founding members of Better Cotton and has been investing in the Better Cotton programme since its inception in 2005. We were able to meet our goal of only sourcing cotton from what we classify as ‘more sustainable’ sources in 2015 mainly by sourcing cotton through the Better Cotton programme. We are pleased to continue to support Better Cotton as they aim to achieve deeper impact for cotton farmers and farming communities and seek to make more sustainable cotton the fiber of choice for growers and buyers. Together with other Better Cotton Members, we have been delivering on our sourcing commitments, and today with joint and concerted efforts of everyone, Better Cotton represents 10% of cotton sourced in supply chains, globally. This is a great launch pad for even bigger achievements by 2030, a journey we look forward to being a part of and helping develop even further.
Arvind Rewal, Global Cotton Development Manager, IKEA – Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Member
Our commitment to better social and environmental practices, as well as demand from our customers, is driving us towards our goal of sourcing more sustainable raw materials for our products. Being a Better Cotton Member is helping us to achieve that goal, as through our membership we are contributing to reducing the environmental impact of cotton farming, as well as improving the safety and well-being of cotton farmers. In 2020, in our first year as a Better Cotton Member, 15% of our cotton came from more sustainable sources, in 2021, that figure was 60%, including Better Cotton.
Valesca Magalhaes, Executive, Sustainability, Riachuelo – Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Member
Whether new to the Better Cotton network, or long-standing members, thousands of organisations across the cotton sector, including retailers and brands, are contributing to transforming cotton: supporting cotton farming communities and driving sustainability in cotton farming. Find all Better Cotton Members.
Since 2010, we have been demonstrating the power of public-private partnerships to garner action towards achieving more sustainable development in the cotton sector. The results we see at Better Cotton strengthen our conviction that we, and our members and partners are well placed to continue supporting cotton communities to survive and thrive while protecting and restoring the environment.
Lena Staafgard, COO, Better Cotton
To learn more about the impact of the Better Cotton programme, please see our latest Impact Report.
1 With global cotton production (ICAC) in 2020-21 cotton season at 24,303,000 MT, Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Member uptake is 10% of global production.
This is an old news post – to read the latest about Better Cotton traceability, please click here.
New Traceability Panel invests over £1million in supply chain innovations.
Better Cotton has convened a group of leading international retailers and brands to help enable the delivery of new traceability solutions and bring greater visibility to the cotton supply chain. These include names like Marks & Spencer (M&S), Zalando and BESTSELLER.
The panel has pulled together an initial £1m tranche of funding. It will work with suppliers, NGOs and independent experts in supply chain assurance to develop an approach that meets the pressing needs of industry today.
Traceability within the cotton supply chain will soon become a market “must” with legislators on both sides of the Atlantic moving to toughen rules. New rules presented this March by the European Commission aim to better protect consumers against false environmental claims and introduce a ban on greenwashing.
For example, sellers will not be allowed to put a sustainability label on their product if there is no certification or recognition by a public authority for it. It also prohibits sellers from making generic environmental claims such as “eco-friendly” or “green” if they cannot demonstrate environmental performance.
Many fashion retailers simply don’t know where the cotton in their clothes comes from. The reasons for not knowing are numerous, and in many cases, legitimate. This traceability panel is a major step towards addressing the reasons behind this inability to trackback to the source. We intend to address sourcing and intellectual property issues head on. Higher supply chain assurance comes at a cost –- as verifying the exact origins of a garment requires more checks and controls – so the investment of additional resources will be critical.
Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton
The Better Cotton Traceability Panel will address all aspects of the cotton supply chain, from farmers in the field through production to the consumer. Better Cotton has gathered input from over 1,500 organisations so far who have made it clear that traceability is business-critical across the whole industry but also that retailers and brands need to integrate sustainability and traceability into their standard business practices. Findings from this research highlighted that 84% indicated a business ‘need to know’ where the cotton in their products was grown. In fact, 4 in 5 suppliers surveyed sought the benefit of an enhanced traceability system. Currently only 15% of apparel companies claim to have full visibility of the raw materials that go into their products according to a recent study by KPMG.
Having worked in partnership with Better Cotton for over a decade, at M&S we have been at the forefront of sourcing more responsible cotton. We met our commitment of reaching 100% responsibly sourced cotton in our clothing in 2019 – but there is still work to be done to improve traceability. We’re proud to be a part of Better Cotton’s Traceability Panel which will help to further accelerate progress within the industry.
Katharine Beacham, Head of Materials and Sustainability, M&S
Specifically Better Cotton and the new panel will provide substantial investment to:
Further develop existing farm to gin tracing arrangements to underpin physical traceability
Build on its existing trading platform tracking movement of a quarter of the world’s cotton through 8000 organisations to make it possible. Fully trace any of the cotton that enters the system within a few years.
Use different technology solutions and credibility arrangements to clearly distinguish country of origin initially and environmental and social practices by growers eventually.
Create new market mechanisms that bring value for farmers, such as rewarding them for carbon sequestration.
Focus on farmers – both big and small – providing training, ensuring proper working conditions, helping them access preferential financing and securing their ability to enter international value chains.
Fashion consumers are increasingly demanding to know the provenance of their purchases and at Zalando, we aim to offer this deeper level of transparency to our customers. We are all aware how complex this issue is within our industry and initiatives like the Better Cotton traceability panel will help to accelerate progress – with action to support sustainable business growth for all in the supply chain. This includes setting ambitious targets and ensuring these are actioned promptly.
Laura Coppen, Head of Circularity, Zalando – a leading European online platform for fashion and lifestyle
Better Cotton and its partners have also trained over 2.5 million farmers in 25 countries, having raised €99 million since 2010 to fund capacity building and other field-level activities. This is projected to grow to just over €125 million by the 2021- 22 season.
Do you want to know what the largest cotton sustainability programme in the world is up to? Keep up to date with the latest developments and hear from BCI Farmers, Partners and Members in the new BCI Quarterly Newsletter. BCI Members also receive a Monthly Member Update.
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The Better Cotton Living Income Project: Insights from India
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