myBetterCotton
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Q&A with adidas

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Q&A with adidas

Well Studio on September 21, 2018

adidas has been a BCI Retailer and Brand Member since 2010. We caught up with Ebru Gencoglu, Senior Manager, Merchandising and Sustainability, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

adidas is close to reaching its target of sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources. How has BCI supported adidas in reaching this ambitious target?

BCI and adidas have worked closely from the beginning to reach this ambitious goal. BCI has engaged actors throughout the supply chain to enable the right amount of supply in the right locations. Led by clearly defined KPIs, BCI has kept the focus on expanding the supply of Better Cotton. This has helped our suppliers to source cotton as Better Cotton, which allowed us to ramp up sourcing in a short period of time.

 

How does adidas’ Better Cotton sourcing target form part of the organisations’ broader sustainability strategy?

We believe that through sport, we have the power to change lives. And we do this every day as a company – by empowering people to live an active life, by teaching life skills through sport, and by creating sustainable products. Our sustainability strategy is deeply rooted in this core belief and as such, our strategic priorities for 2020 are based on products and people. As part of our product ambitions, we strive to develop innovative materials and processes that optimise our environmental impact. We are committed to steadily increasing the volumes of more sustainable materials we source. The Better Cotton Initiative is one example of how we plan to achieve this.

 

Why is it important for adidas to communicate with its customers about its commitments to Better Cotton?

As a large organisation, we have the opportunity – the obligation and capability – to change how things are done. We are a company that integrates sustainability into our business model. It is important for us that our consumers are clear about our commitment and how we are delivering it.

 

As a pioneering BCI Member, what key sustainability changes have you seen the industry address over the past 10 years?

Things have changed quickly over the past several years. Consumers are interested and demanding that we take action when it comes to both social and environmental compliance. We are able to collaborate more and more with supply chain players to innovate and find new solutions. Transparency in the supply chain also keeps improving, enabling companies to choose the right business partners. We are still at the beginning of a long journey when it comes to sustainability. We need to recognise that this is not a sprint but a marathon. Setting the right foundation, however, will be essential to reaching the finishing line.

 

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Save the Date: 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference

Joe Morphet on September 12, 2018

 
We are delighted to announce that the 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference will take place in Shanghai, China on 11 – 13 June, 2019.

If you want to know what to expect at the conference, take a look at our 2018 highlights in the video below.

The BCI 2018 Global Cotton Conference was BCI’s largest event to date. More than 340 people from across the cotton sector came together to collaborate on a more sustainable future for cotton.

You can find a summary of the 2018 conference and further detailshere.

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Q&A with Sarob, Better Cotton Implementing Partner in Tajikistan

Well Studio on September 5, 2018

Cooperative Sarob is BCI’s Implementing Partner in Tajikistan. We caught up with Tahmina Sayfullaeva, Deputy Chairman and BCI coordinator at Cooperative Sarob, to discuss the organisation’s progress to date.

Tell us about your organisation.

Sarob is an organisation of agronomists providing agricultural consultation to cotton farmers in Tajikistan. Our goal is the comprehensive development of agriculture through capacity building, improving access to the market and ensuring cotton farmers have access to the necessary agricultural inputs. As part of our work we provide theoretical and practical training and help farmers to implement new technologies and machinery through demonstrations in the field.

Tell us about Cooperative Sarob’s partnership with the Better Cotton Initiative and the progress made to date.

In 2013, Sarob decided to join BCI in order to create better conditions for cotton production, increase cotton yields and provide cotton farmers with access to a new international market for Better Cotton – cotton produced in line with BCI’s Better Cotton Principles and Criteria. We had the support of the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ) and the Framework and Finance for Private Sector Development (FFPSD) to implement the BCI programme in Tajikistan. In 2017 we worked with 1,263 licensed BCI Farmers covering an area of 17,552 hectares. BCI Farmers are grouped into four Producers Units in the Khatlon and Sughd regions and smallholder farmers are organised into 103 smaller Learning Groups and trained by 100 Field Facilitators. In the 2016-17 season, BCI Farmers in Tajikistan used on average 3% less water, 63% less pesticides and saw 13% higher yields and a 48% increase in profits compared to comparison farmers.

Do you have a specific sustainability challenge which you are addressing as a priority?

We have a strong focus on water stewardship and efficiency as part of our farm management work in Tajikistan. Our methodology is based on implementing water measurement devices which are easily constructed and are of low cost to farmers. Since 2016 we have worked with The Water Productivity Project (WAPRO), a multi-stakeholder initiative to address water efficiency issues in rice and cotton production in Asia – the initiative is implemented by Helvetas in Tajikistan.

 

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Sector-Wide Engagement Drives Large-Scale Change

Joe Morphet on September 5, 2018

 
BCI aims for large-scale transformation of global cotton production. We strive to enable as many cotton farmers as possible to gain access to knowledge and tools to improve the environmental, social and economic sustainability of cotton production, and to benefit from implementing improved practices at field-level.

To bring about market transformation and develop Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity, we must be able to scale the BCI programme. BCI has come a long way since the first harvest of Better Cotton in the 2010-11 cotton season – after just eight seasons, BCI has reached nearly 2 million farmers.

Designed to Achieve Scale

  • Sector-Wide: We learnt that in order to lay the foundation for transformational change within the cotton sector and to achieve scale, it was imperative to include diverse stakeholders, all working towards the same goal. Today we are truly a joint effort, uniting more than 1,350 organisations all the way from farms, to fashion and textile brands, to civil society organisations, driving the entire cotton sector towards sustainability.
  • Training Partners: BCI does not train cotton farmers directly, instead we work with trusted Strategic and Implementing Partners across the world, who invest considerable time and funds in implementing the Better Cotton Standard System. In the 2016-17 season we worked with 59 Strategic and Implementing Partners in 21 countries.
  • Collaboration with Other Standards: BCI recognises three other sustainable cotton standards as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard: myBMP, managed by Cotton Australia; ABR, managed by ABRAPA; and CmiA, managed by the Aid by Trade Foundation. Cotton produced to these standards can also be sold as Better Cotton. In addition, BCI looks for opportunities to collaborate with other sustainable cotton initiatives –our collaboration with Cotton 2040 has already led to the launch of CottonUP, a guide which helps retailers and brands scale their use of more sustainable cotton including Better Cotton, organic, Fairtrade, Cotton Made in Africa, myBMP and recycled cotton.
  • Accessibility: There are no additional costs for smallholder farmers to join the BCI programme and to obtain a license to grow and sell Better Cotton. This significantly reduces the barriers to entry. Farmers receive access to training on more sustainable agricultural practices with a focus on continuous improvement.
  • Mass Balance Chain of Custody:Mass Balance is a supply chain methodology, which simply put,means what comes out must balance with what went in. This methodology means Better Cotton can be mixed with conventional cotton in the supply chain. By using a system of Mass Balance, BCI is able to reach more farmers, encourage more sustainable practices to be implemented around the world. Ultimately, BCI is focused on making cotton production better for farmers, the environment it grows in, and better for the sector’s future. Knowing where the Better Cotton ends up does not benefit BCI Farmers. Learn more about Mass Balance here.
  • The Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund: The Fund utilises the Volume Based Fee paid by Retailer and Brand Members, seeks to obtain match funding from public and private donors, and makes strategic investments into Better Cotton projects in the countries where projects have the potential to achieve both impact and scale. This allows BCI and its Partners to reach more regions, train more farmers and produce more Better Cotton, dramatically accelerating the scale-up of Better Cotton worldwide.

Thanks to the continued support of our Members, Partners and donors, from across the entire cotton sector, we are on track to meet our 2020 target – to reach and train 5 million farmers and ensure that Better Cotton accounts for 30% of global cotton production.

You can read more about BCI’s progress in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

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Better Cotton Joins M&S in New Podcast Series

Joe Morphet on August 10, 2018

 
BCI Retailer and Brand Member M&S has launched a new behind-the-scenes podcast series which explores topics such as sustainability and the history of the high street.

In the first episode, BCI’s COO Lena Staafgard joins M&S’s Director of Plan A, Mike Barry, to discuss the sustainable future of cotton.

Listen to the podcast below.Access the M&S podcast series here.

 

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Better Cotton Farmers Results 2017/18

Dave Patrick on August 6, 2018

Better Cotton Farmer Results provide an overview of the outcomes Better Cotton Farmers are experiencing at field-level by participating in the Better Cotton programme and adhering to the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria (P&C).

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Together Is Better: Better Cotton and OCA Focus on Shared Impact Through Collaboration

Joe Morphet on July 26, 2018

 
The Better Cotton Initiative’s approach is geared toward ensuring that as many farmers as possible gain access to knowledge and tools to improve the environmental, social and economic sustainability of cotton production. We want farmers, their families and communities to experience the benefits of more sustainable production. By 2020, we aim to reach 5 million farmers and ensure that Better Cotton accounts for 30% of global cotton production.

At the same time, BCI plays an important role in growing demand for more sustainable cotton. Strong demand is a key part of the business case for farmers to pursue any sustainability-related designation or certification. Last year, we saw a historic level of uptake, with 736,000 metric tonnes of Better Cotton claimed by BCI Retailer and Brand Members – a 60% increase on 2016. At the end of 2017, 42 of 85 retailer and brand members communicated public, time-bound commitments to source 100% of their cotton more sustainably. This momentum is important because, while approximately 15% of cotton is grown more sustainably, only around a fifth of this is actively sourced.[1]

In order to create systemic change within the sector and drive it towards sustainability, BCI recognises the importance of complementing and supporting other responsible cotton efforts. There are millions of farmers without access to training and capacity building on sustainable agricultural practices. Certifications, standards, licensing and other responsible cotton initiatives are working towards the same goal by providing essential support and training at farm-level. To meet their publicly declared sustainable cotton targets, we believe retailers and brands should support these efforts by developing a diverse portfolio, containing a variety of options, such as Better Cotton, Fairtrade, Cotton Made in Africa and organic cotton. To that end, BCI has recognised three other standards as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard, eliminating duplication and inefficiencies in the market.

BCI is also a proud member of Cotton 2040 – a cross-industry partnership that brings together retailers and brands, cotton standards and industry initiatives to align efforts in priority areas for action. One fellow participant in Cotton 2040 is the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), which unites industry players to grow a prosperous organic cotton sector. Whilst we are working together through Cotton 2040, BCI and OCA are exploring concrete ways that we can strengthen each other’s efforts and reframe the conversation around Better Cotton and organic cotton. This work recognises the global cotton sectors diversity and the value that sustainable cotton brings to farmers, brands and retailers and consumers. ”There is plenty of market opportunity and demand for all cotton sustainability standards and certifications to grow and collectively drive the change that is necessary for the sectors longevity,” says OCA Executive Director, Crispin Argento. Imagine a sector where instead of 5 or 10 million farmers using more sustainable practices, 50 or 60 million, or one day, all farmers around the world were growing cotton responsibly, and benefiting from implementing improved practices.

As OCA has stated publicly, this is not a zero-sum game, and we couldn’t agree more. Increased production and demand of all sustainable cotton standards means improved environmental, social and economic conditions for more farmers. It creates movement from the niche to the mainstream and drives change that is both profound and lasting. BCI and OCA have begun to sit down and grapple with the key links that exist between both organisations’ approaches. We are hopeful that we can find ways of working together that ignite further change within the industry. In the coming year, stay tuned for news on how our joint efforts are evolving.

[1]Sustainable Cotton Ranking 2017 – WWF, Solidaridad and Pesticide Action Network UK

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Together Is Better: Better Cotton and OCA Focus on Shared Impact Through Collaboration

Well Studio on July 26, 2018

The Better Cotton Initiative’s approach is geared toward ensuring that as many farmers as possible gain access to knowledge and tools to improve the environmental, social and economic sustainability of cotton production. We want farmers, their families and communities to experience the benefits of more sustainable production. By 2020, we aim to reach 5 million farmers and ensure that Better Cotton accounts for 30% of global cotton production.

At the same time, BCI plays an important role in growing demand for more sustainable cotton. Strong demand is a key part of the business case for farmers to pursue any sustainability-related designation or certification. Last year, we saw a historic level of uptake, with 736,000 metric tonnes of Better Cotton claimed by BCI Retailer and Brand Members – a 60% increase on 2016. At the end of 2017, 42 of 85 retailer and brand members communicated public, time-bound commitments to source 100% of their cotton more sustainably. This momentum is important because, while approximately 15% of cotton is grown more sustainably, only around a fifth of this is actively sourced.[1]

In order to create systemic change within the sector and drive it towards sustainability, BCI recognises the importance of complementing and supporting other responsible cotton efforts. There are millions of farmers without access to training and capacity building on sustainable agricultural practices. Certifications, standards, licensing and other responsible cotton initiatives are working towards the same goal by providing essential support and training at farm-level. To meet their publicly declared sustainable cotton targets, we believe retailers and brands should support these efforts by developing a diverse portfolio, containing a variety of options, such as Better Cotton, Fairtrade, Cotton Made in Africa and organic cotton. To that end, BCI has recognised three other standards as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard, eliminating duplication and inefficiencies in the market.

BCI is also a proud member of Cotton 2040 – a cross-industry partnership that brings together retailers and brands, cotton standards and industry initiatives to align efforts in priority areas for action. One fellow participant in Cotton 2040 is the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), which unites industry players to grow a prosperous organic cotton sector. Whilst we are working together through Cotton 2040, BCI and OCA are exploring concrete ways that we can strengthen each other’s efforts and reframe the conversation around Better Cotton and organic cotton. This work recognises the global cotton sectors diversity and the value that sustainable cotton brings to farmers, brands and retailers and consumers. ”There is plenty of market opportunity and demand for all cotton sustainability standards and certifications to grow and collectively drive the change that is necessary for the sectors longevity,” says OCA Executive Director, Crispin Argento. Imagine a sector where instead of 5 or 10 million farmers using more sustainable practices, 50 or 60 million, or one day, all farmers around the world were growing cotton responsibly, and benefiting from implementing improved practices.

As OCA has stated publicly, this is not a zero-sum game, and we couldn’t agree more. Increased production and demand of all sustainable cotton standards means improved environmental, social and economic conditions for more farmers. It creates movement from the niche to the mainstream and drives change that is both profound and lasting. BCI and OCA have begun to sit down and grapple with the key links that exist between both organisations’ approaches. We are hopeful that we can find ways of working together that ignite further change within the industry. In the coming year, stay tuned for news on how our joint efforts are evolving.

[1]Sustainable Cotton Ranking 2017 – WWF, Solidaridad and Pesticide Action Network UK

 

 

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CottonUP: The New Industry Tool to Advance Sustainable Sourcing

Well Studio on July 20, 2018

CottonUP is a new interactive guide launched by Cotton 2040 to help brands and retailers fast track sustainable sourcing across multiple standards. The guide answers three big questions about sourcing sustainable cotton: why it’s important, what you need to know and do, and how to get started.

The guide was developed by the Cotton 2040 coalition, which includes retailers and brands, cotton standards and industry initiatives. Sustainability non-profit Forum for the Future led the work, with funding from the C&A Foundation.

BCI caught up with Brooke Summers, Manager, Supply Chain Relationships at Cotton Australia, a CottonUP contributor, to talk about her organisation’s involvement.

 

Why did Cotton Australia decide to be involved in the creation of the CottonUP guide?

Cotton Australia became involved for a number ofreasons.Firstly, the issues being raised by Forum forthe Future were similar to ones the brands here in Australia were experiencing and we wanted to be able to help them overcome them in order to source sustainable cotton. Secondly, we wanted to make sure the farmer voice was heard inthe group. Sometimes their valuable insights can be lost in these discussions.Finally, we saw a great opportunity to collaborate with the other cotton standards to achieve something together forthe first time. The challenges for cotton are often positioned as challenges for all, but we are dealing with complex natural systems that are different acrossgeographies and cultures–trying to find simplicity in this complexity was part of what we hoped to help with.

 

How do you envision the CottonUP guide driving change in the sector?

In Australia specifically, there are brands at various stages of the sustainabilityjourney, some just beginning. We hope the guide will drive change in the industry by making sustainable cotton sourcing easier. We also hope it will lead to increased collaboration between brands to drive more uptake of sustainable cotton. This increased awareness, and desire to take action, will in turn drive participation in Cotton Australia’s on-farm sustainability programmes, which is a key goal of ours.

CottonUP seeks to address one of the main barriers for companies looking to start sourcing or increase the amounts of sustainable cotton they source: the time and resource required to research and implement the most appropriate sourcing approach for their organisation’s sustainability priorities.

Access the CottonUP guide.

 

© Cotton Australia

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CottonUP: The New Industry Tool to Advance Sustainable Sourcing

Joe Morphet on July 20, 2018

CottonUP is a new interactive guide launched by Cotton 2040 to help brands and retailers fast track sustainable sourcing across multiple standards. The guide answers three big questions about sourcing sustainable cotton: why it’s important, what you need to know and do, and how to get started.

The guide was developed by the Cotton 2040 coalition, which includes retailers and brands, cotton standards and industry initiatives. Sustainability non-profit Forum for the Future led the work, with funding from the C&A Foundation.

BCI caught up with Brooke Summers, Manager, Supply Chain Relationships at Cotton Australia, a CottonUP contributor, to talk about her organisation’s involvement.

Why did Cotton Australia decide to be involved in the creation of the CottonUP guide?

Cotton Australia became involved for a number ofreasons.Firstly, the issues being raised by Forum forthe Future were similar to ones the brands here in Australia were experiencing and we wanted to be able to help them overcome them in order to source sustainable cotton. Secondly, we wanted to make sure the farmer voice was heard inthe group. Sometimes their valuable insights can be lost in these discussions.Finally, we saw a great opportunity to collaborate with the other cotton standards to achieve something together forthe first time. The challenges for cotton are often positioned as challenges for all, but we are dealing with complex natural systems that are different acrossgeographies and cultures–trying to find simplicity in this complexity was part of what we hoped to help with.

How do you envision the CottonUP guide driving change in the sector?

In Australia specifically, there are brands at various stages of the sustainabilityjourney, some just beginning. We hope the guide will drive change in the industry by making sustainable cotton sourcing easier. We also hope it will lead to increased collaboration between brands to drive more uptake of sustainable cotton. This increased awareness, and desire to take action, will in turn drive participation in Cotton Australia’s on-farm sustainability programmes, which is a key goal of ours.

CottonUP seeks to address one of the main barriers for companies looking to start sourcing or increase the amounts of sustainable cotton they source: the time and resource required to research and implement the most appropriate sourcing approach for their organisation’s sustainability priorities.

Access the CottonUP guide.

© Cotton Australia

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