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What Does 2019 Have in Store For Better Cotton? A Message from CEO Alan McClay

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What Does 2019 Have in Store For Better Cotton? A Message from CEO Alan McClay

Joe Morphet on February 4, 2019

 
This year, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) turns 10 years old.

In this short amount of time, BCI has experienced exceptional growth. Today, the Initiative has more than 1,400 members and works with 60 field-level partners, to reach and train 1.6 million cotton farmers in 23 countries (2016-17 season figures). With our partners, members and stakeholders we have achieved a lot in the past 10 years, but there is a long way to go to ensure global cotton production is better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future.

As BCI heads towards its second decade, the organisation’s focus is firmly fixed on the future and building a strategy to 2030. We are truly a collaborative effort and we continue to work with all of our stakeholders to ensure BCI and the Better Cotton Standard System effectively address cotton production challenges, while meeting the sourcing needs of our members.

Throughout the year we will be publishing a series of articles, with input from key stakeholders who have been influential throughout BCI’s first decade – from partners, to civil society organisations, to retailers and brands. The first article in the series will be published in early March.

We are also turning our attention to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), and how BCI and its members can continue to be catalysts for change as part of the global momentum harnessed by the SDGs. Over the last year, we conducted a mapping exercise whereby we compared BCI’s organisational objectives to the 17 Goals and related targets to determine where BCI is driving them in a tangible way. We identified 10 SDGs where BCI is making robust contributions – you can find out more in our new SDG hub.

Additionally, we recognise that the need for BCI Members to communicate about sustainability is growing and evolving, and the Better Cotton Claims Framework must evolve in parallel with these growing market and consumer expectations. At the beginning of the year we launched a review of the framework. Following a period of consultation, the Better Cotton Claims Framework V2.0 will be released in the spring. We are also continuing to refine the monitoring and evaluation of our field-level work in order to facilitate credible communications about the outcomes and impacts of members’ investments in more sustainable cotton production.

We would like to say thank you to all of our members, partners and stakeholders for your continued support, and we look forward to working together as BCI moves into the next chapter.

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Laying the Foundation for Sustainable Cotton Production in India

Well Studio on December 12, 2018

In India, the first harvest of Better Cotton took place during the 2010-11 cotton season. Global fabric and apparel manufacturer Arvind Ltd. partnered with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) to lead the implementation of the Better Cotton Standard,laying the foundation for more sustainable cotton production in the country.

Arvind’s journey to sustainable cotton production began a few years earlier in 2007, when the organisation developed an organic smallholder farming programme;at the same time, BCIwas being established. Seeing the potential to take sustainably produced cotton mainstream, and change the sector for the better, Arvind joined the earlydiscussions about the initiative. The manufacturer went on to become BCI’s first Implementing Partner in India – the first bales of Better Cotton were produced on a farm under Arvind’s management. Today,Arvind works with more than 25,000 BCI Farmers (9% are women) in three cotton-producing regions.

Once Arvind haveidentified cotton-producing communities that require support, they aim to work with as many farmers as they can. However, it is not always easy to convince farmers to break away from traditional practices. ”Initially farmers have a mixed reaction to BCI”, says Pragnesh Shah, CEO, Cotton and Agri Business at Arvind. ”They want to know how implementing the Better Cotton Standard will benefit them, and they want to know what the risks are. The farmers we work with do not have the finances to invest in better farming technologiesand they cannot afford to take risks that may impact their yields. We need to clearly demonstrate the benefits of adopting new — cost-effective and sustainable — farming techniques to them”.

To do this, Arvind works closely with local agricultural universities and science centres to organise meetings where farmers can interact directly with subject experts. To clearly demonstrate the benefits of new practices, cotton demonstration plots are implemented in each village under the BCI Programme. ”Seeing is believing for many farmers”, says Abhishek Bansal, Head of Sustainability at Arvind. ”Once they see the potential to reduce their input costs, improve their yields and profits, as well as receive free training and advice, they are enthusiastic about BCI and open to adopting new practices”.

Environmental conditions such as water availability and soil health present particularly pressing challenges for many of the cotton farmers within Arvind’s BCI Programme areas. The farmers work in water stressed regions and depend on rainfall to irrigate their crops – if the summer monsoon fails this leads to water shortages. In collaboration with other NGOs, Arvind teaches farmers about water harvesting and drip irrigation methods, helping them to manage and use water in a more sustainable way.

Educating farmers on the impacts of hazardous chemicals on soil and on personal health is another key focus area. ”Historically there has been a common overuse of chemicals in cotton farming in India”, says Pragnesh. ”We teach farmers how to make and use natural bio-pesticides while also helping them to understand what fertilisers and pesticides should be used, given the condition of the land. We provide farmers with the knowledge to identify friendly and enemy insects – showing them how to use various types of traps to remove enemies without the use of pesticides. In the long-term we want to help farmers to improve soil fertility and reduce the need for chemicals”.

Pragnesh and Abhishek have discovered that attitudes towards cotton production are shifting. They have seen first-hand that the next generation of cotton farmers are looking for change. ”Younger farmers are becoming more environmentally conscious, and they are keen to implement new techniques and technologies that will help to effectively raise yields”, says Pragnesh. A shift is also taking place beyond the cotton fields. ”In the last two years we have seen increased demand for Better Cotton from retailers and brands, as many implement sustainable raw materials strategies”, says Abhishek. ”We hope to have 400,000 hectares under Better Cotton cultivation in the next 4 to 5 years (up from 100,000 hectares today) in order to meet demand for more sustainably produced cotton”.

Arvind has been a supporter of BCI since day one and fostered more sustainable cotton production in India. The organisation continues to be a valued partner and is working with BCI to achieve our 2020 target of reaching and training 5 million cotton farmers on more sustainable agricultural practices.

Image: BCI Farmers inMaharashtra, India.© Arvind 2018.

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Laying the Foundation for Sustainable Cotton Production in India

Joe Morphet on December 12, 2018

In India, the first harvest of Better Cotton took place during the 2010-11 cotton season. Global fabric and apparel manufacturer Arvind Ltd. partnered with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) to lead the implementation of the Better Cotton Standard,laying the foundation for more sustainable cotton production in the country.

Arvind’s journey to sustainable cotton production began a few years earlier in 2007, when the organisation developed an organic smallholder farming programme;at the same time, BCIwas being established. Seeing the potential to take sustainably produced cotton mainstream, and change the sector for the better, Arvind joined the earlydiscussions about the initiative. The manufacturer went on to become BCI’s first Implementing Partner in India – the first bales of Better Cotton were produced on a farm under Arvind’s management. Today,Arvind works with more than 25,000 BCI Farmers (9% are women) in three cotton-producing regions.

Once Arvind haveidentified cotton-producing communities that require support, they aim to work with as many farmers as they can. However, it is not always easy to convince farmers to break away from traditional practices. ”Initially farmers have a mixed reaction to BCI”, says Pragnesh Shah, CEO, Cotton and Agri Business at Arvind. ”They want to know how implementing the Better Cotton Standard will benefit them, and they want to know what the risks are. The farmers we work with do not have the finances to invest in better farming technologiesand they cannot afford to take risks that may impact their yields. We need to clearly demonstrate the benefits of adopting new — cost-effective and sustainable — farming techniques to them”.

To do this, Arvind works closely with local agricultural universities and science centres to organise meetings where farmers can interact directly with subject experts. To clearly demonstrate the benefits of new practices, cotton demonstration plots are implemented in each village under the BCI Programme. ”Seeing is believing for many farmers”, says Abhishek Bansal, Head of Sustainability at Arvind. ”Once they see the potential to reduce their input costs, improve their yields and profits, as well as receive free training and advice, they are enthusiastic about BCI and open to adopting new practices”.

Environmental conditions such as water availability and soil health present particularly pressing challenges for many of the cotton farmers within Arvind’s BCI Programme areas. The farmers work in water stressed regions and depend on rainfall to irrigate their crops – if the summer monsoon fails this leads to water shortages. In collaboration with other NGOs, Arvind teaches farmers about water harvesting and drip irrigation methods, helping them to manage and use water in a more sustainable way.

Educating farmers on the impacts of hazardous chemicals on soil and on personal health is another key focus area. ”Historically there has been a common overuse of chemicals in cotton farming in India”, says Pragnesh. ”We teach farmers how to make and use natural bio-pesticides while also helping them to understand what fertilisers and pesticides should be used, given the condition of the land. We provide farmers with the knowledge to identify friendly and enemy insects – showing them how to use various types of traps to remove enemies without the use of pesticides. In the long-term we want to help farmers to improve soil fertility and reduce the need for chemicals”.

Pragnesh and Abhishek have discovered that attitudes towards cotton production are shifting. They have seen first-hand that the next generation of cotton farmers are looking for change. ”Younger farmers are becoming more environmentally conscious, and they are keen to implement new techniques and technologies that will help to effectively raise yields”, says Pragnesh. A shift is also taking place beyond the cotton fields. ”In the last two years we have seen increased demand for Better Cotton from retailers and brands, as many implement sustainable raw materials strategies”, says Abhishek. ”We hope to have 400,000 hectares under Better Cotton cultivation in the next 4 to 5 years (up from 100,000 hectares today) in order to meet demand for more sustainably produced cotton”.

Arvind has been a supporter of BCI since day one and fostered more sustainable cotton production in India. The organisation continues to be a valued partner and is working with BCI to achieve our 2020 target of reaching and training 5 million cotton farmers on more sustainable agricultural practices.

Image: BCI Farmers inMaharashtra, India.© Arvind 2018.

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Registration Is Open for the 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference

Joe Morphet on December 10, 2018

 
2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference
Driving Change from Field to Fashion
11 – 13 June, 2019 |Shanghai, China

The 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference will bring the entire sector together in Shanghai on 12 – 13 June, to shape a more sustainable future for cotton. Join industry leaders and experts for an interactive opportunity to explore topics at field level, in the supply chain and in consumer-facing business.

Prior to the public conference, on 11 June, the Better Cotton Initiative will host its Annual Member Meeting to share organisational updates, report on Better Cotton supply and facilitate a new peer-engagement platform.

Register before 15 Febto take advantage of the early-bird registration fees. BCI Members receive an additional 60% discount!

Call for Speakers

This year we are inviting other cotton sustainability standards and initiatives to participate in shaping the agenda of the 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference.If you would like to share your ideas, expertise and insights with us, please submit your speaker proposal by 15 December.Learn more.

Sponsorship Opportunities

The global conference provides access to an international audience, prominent stakeholders within the cotton industry and organisations with a commitment to sustainability. We have a variety of conference sponsorship packages still available.Contact[email protected]for further information.

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Better Cotton Drives Measurable Improvements in Cotton Production

Joe Morphet on November 29, 2018

 
In order to produce and sellBetter Cotton, licensed BCI Farmers adhere to the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria(P&C), addressing topics from water use to pest management to decent work. Implementing the Better Cotton P&C enables farmers to produce cotton in a way that is measurably better for themselves, the environment and farming communities.

Farmer results from the 2016-17 season demonstrate the benefits of implementing more sustainable practices around the world.Here are some key highlights from China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan and Turkey.

Social

  • In Turkey, 83% of BCI Farmers had advanced knowledge of child labour issues.
  • BCI is addressing women’s inclusion, and in China, 37% of farmers who received BCI training on pesticide preparation and use were women.

Environmental

  • BCI Farmers in Pakistan used 20% less water for irrigation than Comparison Farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in India used 17% less synthetic fertiliser than Comparison Farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in Tajikistan used 63% less pesticide than Comparison Farmers.

Economic

  • BCI Farmers in China hada 14% higher yield than Comparison Farmers.
  • BCI Farmers in Pakistan had a 37% higher profit than Comparison Farmers.

Access theBCI Farmer Results 2016-17to see how BCI is driving measurable improvements in cotton production.

Comparison Farmers
The BCI Farmer Results presented here compare the country averages of key social, environmental and economic indicators achieved by licensed BCI Farmers to non-BCI farmers in the same geographic area who are not participating in the BCI programme. We refer to the latter farmers as Comparison Farmers.

Talking About Farmer Results Accurately
Farm results must not be manipulated in any way. Averaging farm results across different geographies undermines the credibility of the data. Should you wish to use results pleasecontactthe Communications Team who will help you craft your Better Cotton story in a way that maintains the integrity of the data.

Gujarat, India. BCI Farmer Vinodbhai Patel (left) together with share croppers, working on his farm. © 2018 Florian Lang.

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Better Cotton Members Lead on More Sustainable Cotton Sourcing

Joe Morphet on November 15, 2018

 
Committed BCI Retailer and Brand Members have significantly contributed to the dramatic growth of Better Cotton over the past eight years, helping to drive BCI towards its 2020 target of having Better Cotton account for 30% of global cotton production. They are supporting market transformation by integrating Better Cotton into their raw materials strategies and driving demand for more sustainable cotton production worldwide.

While all BCI Retailer and Brand Members are contributing to the sustainable future of cotton, we would like to take this opportunity to highlight some of the leaders.

In 2017, 71 BCI Retailer and Brand Members sourced a record-breaking 736,000 metric tonnes of Better Cotton. The following members are the top 15 (in descending order) based on their total Better Cotton sourcing volumes in the 2017 calendar year1. Together they sourced a significant proportion of the total volume of Better Cotton.

1. Hennes & Mauritz AB

2. Ikea Supply AG

3. adidas AG

4. Gap Inc.

5. Nike, Inc.

6. Levi Strauss & Co.

7. C&A AG

8. Decathlon SA

9. VF Corporation

10. Bestseller

11. PVH Corp.

12. Marks and Spencer PLC

13. Tesco Clothing

14. PUMA SE

15. Varner Retail AS

In addition to considering total volume, the percentage of a company’s overall portfolio of more sustainable cotton is also important. For some retailers and brands, Better Cotton accounts for a substantial percentage of their total cotton sourcing. adidas AG – who have been steadily working to meet a 100% Better Cotton sourcing target by 2018 – sourced more than 90% of their cotton as Better Cotton in 2017. DECATHLON SA, Hemtex AB, Ikea Supply AG and Stadium AB sourced more than 75% of their cotton as Better Cotton1.

We would also like to highlight the “fastest movers’ of 2017 – adidas AG, ASOS, DECATHLON SA, Gap Inc., Gina Tricot AB, G-Star RAW C.V., HEMA B.V., Hennes & Mauritz AB, IdKIds Sas, Just Brands B.V., KappAhl Sverige AB, KID Interi√∏r AS, MQ Holding AB and Varner Retail AS. These retailers and brands increased their volumes of cotton sourced as Better Cotton by the highest number of percentage points compared to the previous year (2016).

BCI’s demand-driven funding model means that retailer and brand sourcing of Better Cotton directly translates to increased investment in training for cotton farmers on more sustainable practices. In the 2017-18 cotton season, BCI Retailer and Brand Members contributed more than ‚Ǩ6.4 million enabling more than 1 million farmers across China, India, Mozambique, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkey and Senegal to receive support and training*. Visit Stories from the Field on the BCI website to learn first-hand from farmers about the benefits they are experiencing from implementing the Better Cotton Standard System.

Please visit the Better Cotton Leaderboard on the BCI website for more information. Here you will find a list of all the retailers and brands that contributed to the collective demand for 736,000 metric tonnes of Better Cotton in 2017, along with the leading cotton traders and mills in terms of volumes of Better Cotton sourced.

Transforming cotton production worldwide requires commitment and collaboration. We are proud to be working together with all BCI Members and Partners to create a more sustainable sector.

*While the investment from BCI Retailer and Brand Members (mobilised through the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund) reached over one million farmers in the 2017-2018 season, the Better Cotton Initiativeis forecast to reach and train a total of 1.7 million cotton farmers in the season. The final figures will be released in BCI’s 2018 Annual Report.

[1]By “sourcing cotton as Better Cotton,’ BCI is referring to the action taken by members when they place orders for cotton-containing products. It does not refer to the cotton present in the finished product. BCI uses a chain of custody model called Mass Balance whereby volumes of Better Cotton are tracked on an online sourcing platform. Better Cotton may be mixed with or replaced by conventional cotton in its journey from field to product, however, the volumes of Better Cotton claimed by members on the online platform never exceeds the volumes physically procured by spinners and traders.
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Contributing to a More Sustainable Way of Doing Fashion: Q&A with Monki

Joe Morphet on November 13, 2018

 
This year Monki (a brand of BCI Member Hennes & Mauritz Group) achieved its goal to sustainably source 100% of its cotton. The retailer’s longer-term goalis to source only recycled or other more sustainable materials by 2030.We caught up with Irene Haglund, Sustainability Manager, to talk about their achievement and what is next for the brand.

Monki has achieved its goal to sustainably source 100% of its cotton. Tell us about your journey and your sustainable cotton portfolio.

From using organic cotton, to partnering with organisations like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), to adhering to our ’no-go’ material list, we are making conscious decisions to help minimise any environmental impact our materials have on the world. With milestones such as our 100% organic denim range launched in summer 2016 to our current goal of100%sustainably sourced cotton, we continuously strive to make the world a kinder place and believe that sustainability is a large part of this.

How have you worked withBCIto communicate Monki’s commitments to Better Cotton in a way that maintains Monki’s tone of voice and resonates with your customers?

BCI has been an essential partner in helping us to communicate our achievement of 100% sustainably sourced cotton. The fun, friendly, brave and empowering ways of our communication together withBCI’s specialist role in sustainability and their deep knowledge of the subject have together resulted in accessible and informative communication that speaks to our customer and community.

What response have your sustainable cotton communications received?

We saw positive engagement and support from our own community in the Monki social media channels as well as keen interest in the topic from international media outlets.It is a great feeling being able to present concrete steps and achievements towards a kinder future for all and the response we receive shows us that we are on the right path.We know thatour customers want something more than just products, and we work actively to have an honest dialogue, to listen and to improve. We love feedback, positive or negative, because this means that our community is committed, engaged and wants to be a part of Monki.

Now that you’ve achieved your 100% goal with regards to sustainable cotton sourcing, what is next for Monki?

Our aim is to source recycled or other more sustainable materials only, by 2030. In the long run it’s a step towards contributing to a more sustainable way of doing fashion. Through various initiatives, such as only using 100% organic cotton on all denim collections, sustainably sourced cotton in all products, and offering garment and textile recycling in all stores and offices, Monki is working towardsbecoming climate positive throughout our entire value chain by 2040.We are continuously re-analysing and adjusting ways to make a difference and to achieve a circular production model. Design,materials, production, garment care and the lifecycle of garments are just a part of this. Other projects include LED lighting in all new stores, reducing non-commercial goods, and paper bags replacing plastic bags.

Visit Monki Cares to find out more about Monki’s sustainability initiatives.

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Learning First-Hand from Better Cotton Farmers in Pakistan: Q&A with Better Cotton’s Communications Coordinator

Well Studio on November 12, 2018

When BCI staff member Morgan Ferrar from the global communications team visited Pakistan, she saw how families’ lives are improving since cotton farmers have joined the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) programme, and how it can be the start of a very different future for communities.

 

What was the reason for your visit to Pakistan?

Supporting farmers is at the heart of our work and is the reason for BCI’s existence. In Pakistan, there are more than 90,000 licensed BCI Farmers. I visited two Punjabi districts, Muzaffargarh and Rahim Yar Khan, to meet some of these farmers and hear about their experiences and perspectives directly. I wanted to understand the unique challenges that these farmers face and learn about how they are adopting more sustainable agricultural practices to overcome these challenges.

There was a particular family that I was curious to meet. BCI Farmer Jam Muhammad Saleem, from rural village Jhangar Marha in Muzaffargarh, Punjab, was struggling to make ends meet. He saw no choice but for his 12-year-old son to leave school to work alongside him and his wife to tend their farm. But when Saleem started participating in BCI training sessions in 2017, organised by our field-level partner WWF-Pakistan, his outlook completely changed. This is a powerful example of how BCI works to eliminate child labour. I spent time with Saleem and his family and I asked them if they would like to share their story with the world. Stay tuned!

 

What are the challenges in cotton production in Pakistan that you learnt about?

One of the main challenges that Pakistani cotton farmers have experienced recently is extreme weather conditions caused by climate change. Specifically, low rainfall and rain falling at irregular times of the year. Low rainfall can lead to drought conditions and insufficient water for healthy growth. Dehydrated cotton plants, pushed beyond their capacity to cope with dry conditions, can shed their cotton bolls before the harvest, depleting farmers’ yields. Meanwhile, a lack of water can also bring new insect problems, as crop-destroying insects move from less hardy host plants to attack cotton instead.

In some instances, these challenges can foment farmers’ reluctance to allowing their children to attend school, fearing that without their child’s help on the farm, their crops will surely fail. To overcome resistance to children’s education, we seek to address and secure children’s rights to education, health, development and well-being through a series of structured training sessions that take place each season. Farmers learn how farm work impacts on children’s health and wellbeing, why children should be kept away from pesticides and hazardous tasks, and about the value of education as well as national labour laws.

 

Tell me about some of the farmers that you met and the experiences that they shared with you?

First, I met Muhammad Mustafa, who was so full of energy and was eager to tell me about the improvements in his life. Through the BCI programme, he had learnt new techniques to farm cotton in a more sustainable way by reducing his pesticide usage. This has saved Mustafa money that he would otherwise be using on expensive chemical pesticides, and because of this, he and his family have been able to move into a more spacious house. However, what Mustafa was most proud of was that because of his reduced spending on inputs, he can even now afford for his eldest daughter to attend college.

I then met Mustafa’s childhood friend, Shahid Mehmood, who is also a cotton farmer. Mehmood shared similar perspectives to Mustafa’s; his profit had increased by reducing the amount he spent on inputs, and because of this he could afford to send his children to school. Another BCI Farmer I met, Afzal Faisal, had enough additional income to create a new revenue stream on the side of cotton production; supplying solar panels to other farmers in the community.

The farmers I met in Pakistan are undeniably proud to be cotton farmers – that they can continue to do what they love, while increasing their yields and profits, using the additional income to create new revenue streams and send their children to school enriched their lives more than I could’ve possibly imagined. It was on this day that I truly gained first-hand perspective about the impact BCI is having at field-level in Pakistan.

 

What are the next steps?

We are incredibly proud of BCI Farmers like Saleem, Mustafa and Mehmood, who are committed to producing cotton in a more environmentally and socially sustainable way. In every country where Better Cotton is grown, there are many more successful BCI Farmers who have experiences and perspectives to share. At BCI, we are committed to amplifying these stories to a global audience to keep the momentum going and expand the BCI movement. This helps more farmers gain access to knowledge and training, building their capacity to implement sustainable agricultural practices. You can learn more about the experiences of BCI Farmers here.

 

Image: Morgan Ferrar with BCI Farmer Nasreem Bibi. Rahim Yar Khan, Punjab, Pakistan. 2018.

 

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