Better Cotton is the world’s leading sustainability initiative for cotton. Our mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.
In just over 10 years we have become the world’s largest cotton sustainability programme. Our mission: to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.
Better Cotton is grown in 22 countries around the world and accounts for 22% of global cotton production. In the 2022-23 cotton season, 2.13 million licensed Better Cotton Farmers grew 5.47 million tonnes of Better Cotton.
Today Better Cotton has more than 2,700 members, reflecting the breadth and diversity of the industry. Members of a global community that understands the mutual benefits of sustainable cotton farming. The moment you join, you become part of this too.
The founding premise of Better Cotton is that a healthy sustainable future for cotton and the people that farm it is in the interests of everyone connected with it.
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Photo credit: Muhammadi Muminov. Location: London, 2023. Description: His Excellency Qurbon Khakimzoda, Tajikistan Minister of Agriculture (left) and Rebecca Owen, Director of Fundraising at Better Cotton (right).
Better Cotton has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Tajikistan’s Ministry of Agriculture to reinforce the pair’s partnership and further support the production of more sustainable cotton across the Central Asian nation.
The MoU was signed by Better Cotton’s Director of Fundraising, Rebecca Owen, and Tajikistan’s Minister of Agriculture, His Excellency Qurbon Khakimzoda, at this week’s Tajikistan Investment and Development Forum, in London.
With increased collaboration, the pair will prioritise the expansion of more sustainable cotton production, with a focus on both environmental and social outcomes. Notably, improving the quality of cotton fibre, farmer wellbeing and overall agricultural sustainability are in scope.
To achieve this, the MoU establishes that Better Cotton and the ministry will develop a strategic roadmap for more sustainable cotton production in Tajikistan, according to the Better Cotton Standard System, considering the requirements of the global market.
The collaboration will see both parties conduct outreach and awareness activities across the country to promote the benefits of more sustainable growing practices, whilst the adoption of practical innovations will be explored to determine how domestic farmers can improve.
Fundamental to this shift will be the availability and allocation of financial resources. As such, Better Cotton will work with the ministry to identify new sources of funding and investment that can unlock new opportunities across the country’s cotton sector.
Better Cotton’s programme in Tajikistan has already shown results. In the 2019-2020 cotton season, synthetic fertiliser use among Better Cotton Farmers was 62% lower than Comparison Farmers, whilst yields were 15% higher.
This MoU is the start of a strategic roadmap to expand sustainable cotton production in Tajikistan – creating opportunities to improve the livelihoods, well-being and market access for cotton farming communities.
Rebecca Owen, Director of Fundraising, Better Cotton
Better Cotton Also Announces Conference Welcome Reception at Fashion for Good Museum
Better Cotton today announces the first of four keynote speakers who will headline the Better Cotton Conference 2023, taking place in Amsterdam on 21 and 22 June. Nisha Onta, Regional Coordinator for Asia at WOCAN, will kick off the conference, introducing the theme of Climate Action.
Nisha is a climate change and gender expert who acts as Regional Coordinator for Asia at WOCAN (Women Organizing for Change in Agriculture and Natural Resource Management), a women-led global network of professionals committed to organisational change for gender equality and environmentally sustainable development. She also leads Governance Lab’s work to design and conduct policy research for the sustainable development of Nepal, bringing together experienced researchers, policymakers and other partners.
Photo credit: Nisha Onta
A recipient of the NORAD fellowship and the UNDP Human Development Academic Fellowship, Nisha completed her PhD in Gender and Development Studies from the Asian Institute of Technology, Thailand, and is engaged in research in South and Southeast Asia related to climate change adaptation, livelihood diversification and gender. Nisha has participated and presented papers in various climate change workshops and conferences, and is actively involved in gender and climate change scholar networks.
Nisha will give a keynote speech at the conference, introducing the theme of Climate Action. This theme will bring climate experts from a range of sectors together, building on the discussions on climate action held at the Better Cotton Conference 2022, where participants and speakers sought to understand the climate risks facing the cotton sector and explore the implications for future production.
This year’s conference will be split into four themes, highlighting key priorities from Better Cotton’s 2030 Strategy and for the cotton sector at large: Climate Action, Livelihoods, Traceability and Data, and Regenerative Agriculture. Each of these themes will be introduced by a keynote speech from an internationally recognised thought leader. The three remaining keynote speakers, as well as further details on the conference themes and sessions, will be announced in the coming weeks and months.
Welcome Reception To Be Hosted at Fashion For Good Museum
We are also happy to announce that we will be hosting the Welcome Reception for the Better Cotton Conference 2023 at Fashion for Good. The Fashion for Good Museum in Amsterdam tells the stories behind the clothes you wear and how your choices can have a positive impact. A must-visit for anyone interested in fashion, sustainability or innovation, all attendees will gain exclusive access to the museum and a guided tour around the ‘Knowing Cotton Otherwise’ exhibition.
‘Knowing Cotton Otherwise’ sits at the intersection of fashion, art and social change, highlighting the relationship between cotton and the fashion industry, the role of cotton in an increasingly intertwined web of global cultures, and the sustainable innovations driving its circular transformation.
To find out more about the Better Cotton Conference 2023 and sign up for tickets, head to this link. For more information, please contact [email protected]
Photo Credit: Jay Louvion. Headshot of Better Cotton CEO, Alan McClay in Geneva
Better Cotton made significant strides in 2022 towards our vision of a world where more sustainable cotton is the norm. From the unveiling of our new and improved reporting model to a record 410 new members joining in one year, we prioritised on-the-ground change and data-driven solutions. The development of our traceability system entered a new phase with the stage set for pilots to commence, and we secured funding of over 1 million EUR to continue our work for traceable Better Cotton.
We have continued this momentum into 2023, kicking the year off with our Programme Partner Meeting in Phuket, Thailand under the twin themes of climate change and smallholder livelihoods. Our commitment to knowledge sharing continued as we collaborated with ABRAPA, the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers, to organise an Integrated Pest Management workshop in Brazil in February, with the aim of sharing research and innovative initiatives regarding the control of pests and diseases in the cotton crop. We are committed to supporting all efforts to reduce pesticide use.
As we approach the end of the first quarter of 2023, we’ve been taking stock of the current sustainability landscape and mapping out how we can best use our resources and expertise at Better Cotton to address the challenges and opportunities on the horizon.
Welcoming a new wave of industry regulation and introducing Better Cotton traceability
2023 is an important year for sustainability as a growing set of regulations and legislation are being implemented around the world. From the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles to the European Commission’s initiative on substantiating green claims, consumers and lawmakers have wised up to ambiguous sustainability claims like ‘zero emissions’ or ‘eco-friendly’ and are taking steps to make sure claims are verified. At Better Cotton, we welcome any legislation that supports a green and just transition and recognises all progress on impact including at field level.
Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Eugénie Bacher. Harran, Turkey, 2022. Cotton going through a ginning machine, Mehmet Kızılkaya Teksil.
In late-2023, following our supply chain mapping efforts, we will begin to roll out Better Cotton’s global traceability system. The system includes three new Chain of Custody models to physically track Better Cotton, an enhanced digital platform to record these movements, and a new claims framework which will give members access to a new Better Cotton ‘content mark’ for their products.
Our commitment to traceability will ensure Better Cotton Farmers, and particularly smallholders, can continue to access increasingly regulated markets, and we will drive significant growth in the volume of traceable Better Cotton. Over the coming years, we plan to create additional benefits for Better Cotton Farmers including local investment by providing direct connections with retailers, brands, and customers.
Optimising our approach and launching the remaining Better Cotton Impact Targets
In line with growing calls for evidence on sustainability claims, the European Commission has also issued new rules on corporate sustainability reporting. Most notably, the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive came into force on 5 January 2023. This new directive introduces stronger reporting rules for companies operating in the EU and pushes for greater standardisation in reporting methodologies.
After more than 18 months of work, we announced a new and improved approach to our external reporting model at the end of 2022. This new model tracks progress over a multi-year timeframe and integrates new farm performance indicators aligned with the Delta Framework. In 2023, we will continue to share updates on this new approach in our Data & Impact blog series.
During the first half of 2023, we will also be launching the remaining four Impact Targets connected to our 2030 Strategy, focused onpesticide use (as mentioned above), women’s empowerment, soil health and smallholder livelihoods. These four new Impact Targets join our climate change mitigation target to complete our plan to make cotton better for the farmers who produce it and for all those who have a stake in the future of the sector, as well as for the environment. These progressive new metrics will allow better measurement and drive change across five key areas to ensure greater lasting economic, environmental and social benefits at the farm level for cotton-growing communities.
Unveiling our new Better Cotton Principles and Criteria
For the last two years, we have been revising the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria, which lay out the global definition of Better Cotton. As part of this revision, we are going further to integrate key components of regenerative agriculture, including core regenerative practices such as maximising crop diversity and soil cover while minimising soil disturbance, as well as adding a new principle on improving livelihoods.
We are nearing the end of our review process; on 7 February 2023, the draft P&C v.3.0 was officially approved for adoption by the Better Cotton Council. The new and improved Principles and Criteria are expected to be launched in the first half of 2023, followed by a transition year, and will come into full effect in the 2024-25 cotton season.
See you at the 2023 Better Cotton Conference
Last but not least, in 2023 we are looking forward to once again convening industry stakeholders at the 2023 Better Cotton Conference. This year’s conference will take place in Amsterdam (and virtually) on 21 and 22 June, exploring the most salient issues and opportunities in sustainable cotton production, building on some of the topics which we’ve discussed above. We are excited to gather our community and welcome as many of our stakeholders as possible at the conference. We hope to see you there.
Photo Credit: Better Cotton. Location: Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire, 2023. Description: Damien Sanfilippo, Senior Director of Programmes, Better Cotton (left), Abdoul Aziz Yanogo, Regional Manager for West Africa, Better Cotton (centre right), Lisa Barratt, Africa Operations Manager, Better Cotton (right).
Today, Better Cotton will host a multistakeholder event in Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire to explore the potential for new programmes and partnerships across West and Central Africa.
Taking place at the Pullman Hotel, Plateau, the event will enable key stakeholders across the region to share their experiences and perspectives on the future of sustainable cotton production on the continent amidst a rapidly changing climate. Delegates will also have the opportunity to learn more about Better Cotton Programmes and the long-term ambitions that underpin its 2030 Strategy.
Representatives from leading cotton companies and organisations including Solidaridad, The Sustainable Trade Initiative [IDH], ECOM, OlamAgri, APROCOT-CI, amongst several others, will participate in discussions to explore opportunities and challenges regarding sustainability in the cotton sector as well as engaging with stakeholders from the cocoa sector for cross commodity learnings.
Better Cotton is committed to building upon its presence across Africa to enable smallholder farmers to mitigate climate change and adopt a continuous improvement approach to sustainable agricultural practice. With a membership spanning farm to retailer and brand level, Better Cotton is strategically positioned to meet supply with increasing demand. At the farm-level, programme partners provide training and resources to small holder farmers to enable social and environmental improvements that culminate in more climate-resilient operations which in turn assist the livelihoods of the farmers.
Better Cotton is proactively engaging with sector stakeholders across West and Central Africa, in countries such as Chad, Cote D’Ivoire, Burkina Faso, Benin, Togo and Cameroon, to develop multistakeholder collaboration to start impactful Better Cotton programmes.
In November, several West African cotton producing countries, including Benin, Burkina Faso, Mali and Chad – often referred to as the Cotton-4 – called for support to strengthen the resilience of their cotton industries at the World Trade Organisation’s Cotton Days event.
A report from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) at that time estimated that cotton production would increase in the four nations over the coming years, provided appropriate action is taken to promote sustainability standards, empower women and youth and reduce trade-distorting subsidies.
The event signifies an important opportunity for cotton stakeholders in Africa to engage with one another and explore partnerships needed to ensure market access and improved sustainability for cotton growers.
Damien Sanfilippo, Senior Director of Programmes, Better Cotton
By Eva Benavidez Clayton, Director of Communications at Better Cotton
One of the most common misconceptions about cotton is that it is a ‘thirsty crop’, a plant that requires a large amount of water to grow when compared to other crops. In reality, cotton is an inherently heat and drought-tolerant crop, and not a proportionately high consumer of irrigation water when compared to rice, wheat, maize, soybeans and fodder crops.
In celebration of World Water Day, taking place today, March 22, 2023, let’s explore the facts about cotton’s relationship with water, taking a look at the crucial role of water stewardship in the production of Better Cotton, and the steps we must take to combat water scarcity and pollution.
Data from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) shows that, to produce 1kg of lint, roughly equivalent to one T-shirt and a pair of jeans, cotton globally uses 1,931 litres of irrigation water and 6,003 litres of rainwater on average. Relative to other crops, this is not a disproportionately high quantity.
It’s also important to state that the data from ICAC is a global average and the amount of water consumed greatly differs per region. For example, in the US, cotton farmers in the southeast use 234 litres of irrigated water per kilogram of cotton on average whereas farmers in the west use 3,272 litres, demonstrating the importance of focusing on the local and regional context.
However, as highlighted by Transformers Foundation, we must equally recognise that global averages also fail to capture impact, and do not indicate whether water is sustainably managed on a case-by-case basis.
Labelling cotton ’thirsty’ in isolation from its growing context is therefore misleading. Cotton grown in water-stressed regions can contribute to water management challenges, but local climate, poor irrigation systems, poverty, and failure of governance are also contributing factors.
We must also remember that in approximately half of the regions where it produced, cotton is entirely rainfed. The other half require some sort of irrigation, and as freshwater becomes an increasingly scarce and precious resource, it is critical that we use it more sustainably.
Poor irrigation practices, or poor water management more generally, can have devastating, long-term effects on farming activities, on the whole water basin’s environment, and on the broader communities who share its water resources. This impact is not limited to the quantity of water available, but also the quality of the water, due to the use of agrochemicals such as pesticides and fertilisers.
By implementing sustainable farming practices, farmers can learn how to use water efficiently on both rainfed and irrigated farms to achieve greater yields and consume and pollute less water. This not only contributes to more sustainable water use but also helps farmers improve their livelihoods and build resilience to climate change — something that will become increasingly important as pressure on water supply intensifies.
The Better Cotton Principles and Criteria provides farmers with a comprehensive framework for using water in a way that improves yields while conserving resources for them and their community. To find out more, head to this link.
After the earthquake of 6 February hit Turkey, Syria and surrounding regions at a magnitude of 7.8 on the Richter scale, the Turkish province of Hatay was struck with an additional magnitude 6.4 earthquake on 20 February, causing further devastation across the region. The death toll in Turkey and Syria now stands at over 50,000, with 14 million people impacted in Turkey and estimates suggesting that up to 5 million people in Syria may have been made homeless.
These are regions where many Better Cotton Farmers and supply chain members are located, and we are continuing to communicate with members and stakeholders on the ground about the impacts of the disaster and the progress of relief efforts. Together with our Strategic Partner in Turkey, IPUD (İyi Pamuk Uygulamaları Derneği – the Good Cotton Practices Association), we are committed to continuing efforts to support sustainability in the cotton sector while communities recover and rebuild.
Alan McClay, CEO of Better Cotton, commented: “The large scale of destruction and devastation has become apparent since the first earthquake on 6 February. Many of our partners and stakeholders are directly affected, as are our own colleagues in the region. We are helping to channel our support through disaster relief organisations for the immediate, most pressing needs.”
Better Cotton will provide relief from contractual obligations to partners and members in the longer term as reconstruction gets underway. We are also supporting those organisations working hard to keep the supply flows running by ensuring access to the Better Cotton Platform.
As our Members and non-Member BCP Suppliers focus on business continuity, we hope that these actions are helpful and allow them the flexibility to continue working if they are able to do so. Better Cotton has issued a derogation for organisations in Turkey in relation to the Better Cotton Chain of Custody Guidelines version 1.4 – this information is available on the Better Cotton Platform.
Better Cotton Members across the world have rallied to support the victims of the earthquakes, providing both financial and physical aid to those affected by the disaster. We would like to highlight some of their relief activities below.
Mavi, which is headquartered in Istanbul, has converted its Vancouver warehouse into a donation point, collecting aid for delivery to victims in the disaster areas. So far, more than 500 aid parcels containing clothing, tents and food, have been dispatched. In addition, the company has made monetary donations to AFAD and AHBAP and delivered winter clothing to the affected region through the Red Crescent.
The IKEA Foundation has committed €10 million to emergency relief efforts. The grant funds 5,000 Relief Housing Units to support the most vulnerable people left without a home in freezing temperatures.
Inditex, the parent company of Zara, has donated €3 million to the Red Crescent to support humanitarian relief efforts in the aftermath of the earthquakes. Its donation will be used to cover the basic needs of the victims.
DECATHLON has set up a €1 million solidarity fund, managed by the King Baudouin Foundation. This fund will provide financial aid to NGOs that are actively involved in helping and supporting affected populations.
H&M Group has donated US$100,000 to the Disaster and Emergency Management Presidency (AFAD) in response to the humanitarian needs in the impacted area, as well as providing winter garments to victims of the earthquakes. Additionally, the H&M Foundation has donated US$250,000 to the Red Cross/Red Crescent and US$250,000 to Save the Children.
Fast Retailing has donated €1 million to provide emergency humanitarian aid, whilst supplying 40,000 items of winter clothing to the UNHCR refugee relief agency.
If you would like to provide support to the organisations contributing to relief efforts in the regions affected by the earthquakes, please consider donating to the organisations below. If you have an ongoing relief campaign that you’d like us to highlight, please get in touch at [email protected].
Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Vibhor Yadav Location: Kodinar, Gujarat, India. 2019. Description: A farmers hands holding freshly-picked cotton.
A new study from the International Institute for Sustainable Development (IISD), exploring voluntary sustainability standards in the cotton sector in South Asia, has encouraged the region’s cotton sector to accelerate its adoption of voluntary sustainability standards (VSS) such as Better Cotton.
IISD’s mapping of VSS criteria and market potential found that initiatives operating in the region, including Better Cotton and Fairtrade, can help address issues around pest management, water stewardship, and farmers’ incomes. These three issues all fall under Better Cotton’s key impact areas, alongside soil health, greenhouse gas emissions, biodiversity & land use and climate change.
The report, produced as part of IISD’s ‘State of Sustainability Initiatives’ research, focused on the cotton sector in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, countries where cotton represents a crucial sector. It noted that various studies have shown that the implementation of VSSs’ requirements, such as the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria, has led to improvements in agrochemical use, water conservation, and the incomes of South Asian cotton farmers.
The report also highlighted the potential for growth in the region. From 2008 to 2018, South Asia contributed around 30% to global cotton lint production, and the report found significant market potential for VSSs operating in the cotton sector, estimating that Better Cotton alone has the potential to further expand cotton lint by 5.8 million tonnes based on 2018 South Asian production figures.
To read the full report, head to the International Institute for Sustainable Development’s website.
Photo Credit: Marc Plus Filmes Eireli/Carlos Rudney Arguelho Mattoso Location: SLC Pamplona, Goiás, Brazil, 2023. Description: Dr Paul Grundy (left) and Dr Peter Ellsworth (right).
From 28 February to 2 March 2023, Better Cotton held a workshop in collaboration with ABRAPA, the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers on Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM is an ecosystem approach to crop protection that combines different management practices into a strategy for growing healthy crops.
Taking place in Brasilia, the workshop brought together a range of international experts, with presentations and discussions on the latest research and best practices. It also included a field trip to a farm to look at the different ways pest management is executed on a large-scale farming system, including both the successes and challenges.
During the workshop, we sat down with Dr Peter Ellsworth, Professor of Entomology and Extension IPM Specialist at the University of Arizona and Dr Paul Grundy, Technical Lead for IPM at CottonInfo in Australia to talk about their experiences and expertise in IPM.
Let’s start with some definitions – can you explain to me what a biopesticide is?
Dr Peter Ellsworth: In terms of what most people think, it just means a biologically derived pesticide. A pesticide is just something that kills a pest. What a lot of people don’t understand is that a pest is only an organism out of place or out of time. So that could be a weed, it could be a virus, a bacterium, an insect or a mite.
Dr Paul Grundy: I’d describe it as a pathogenic organism that you can spray for the control of a pest. It will be either a virus, fungus or a bacterium. A key advantage is that many biopesticides have a narrow target range and can work well within an IPM program.
What about beneficials, natural enemies and cultural controls?
Dr Peter Ellsworth: When it comes to natural enemies and beneficials, there’s a little nuance there. A natural enemy would be usually some arthropod that feeds on other arthropods, but it could include the pathogens that naturally kill our insects. A beneficial includes all natural enemies, but also includes our pollinators and other organisms that have value in our system.
Dr Paul Grundy: Cultural controls are a range of things. It could be something as simple as an agreed sowing or crop end date. Essentially, it can be anything that entails a crop management tactic that disadvantages a pest.
Peter, can you explain the Arizona scouting and monitoring method that you developed?
Dr Peter Ellsworth: Sure – it’s just counting! But it’s about knowing where to count. In the case of Bemisia whiteflies, you have an animal that can colonise any part of the plant. It can be anywhere on any of the hundreds of leaves on the plant. So, years ago, we did studies to figure out exactly which leaf is most representative of the overall distribution of whitefly adults on the plant. Then we did the same thing for the eggs and nymphs.
Basically, the method is about counting down to the fifth leaf from the top of the plant, turning it over, and when there are three or more adult whiteflies on this leaf, classifying it as ‘infested.’ You also count large nymphs – you detach the leaf, turn it over and you look at a disc the size of a US quarter, using magnifying loupes that we have outfitted with a properly sized template, and if there’s one nymph in that area it’s infested. You tally these two counts up, and when you have a certain number of infested leaves and infested leaf discs, you know if it’s time to spray.
You’re from Australia and the US, which mainly have large cotton farms – but when it comes to Integrated Pest Management (IPM) for smallholders, how much is transferable?
Dr Paul Grundy: Conceptually, it’s the same thing. Pest management is a people business, so the principles for IPM are just as applicable on a small scale as they are on a large scale. There are obviously different logistical scales associated, but the principles are very similar.
Dr Peter Ellsworth: Yeah, the principles I would say are identical. But there are a couple of notable things that change what a smallholder can do. One of them is area-wide factors. Unless the smallholder is terribly well connected with their community and many, many other smallholders cooperate, they don’t have the ecological landscape engineering opportunities that Mato Grosso has. Large farms can do very specific things around isolation, crop placement and timing and sequencing that a smallholder just wouldn’t be able to take advantage of. These area-wide approaches represent important prevention or avoidance tactics that reduce pest pressures on your cotton crop.
The other thing is the hazards. It depends on the smallholder, but for the most part, some of the safety procedures and equipment aren’t necessarily available there, so the stakes are so much higher.
What’s more important in IPM, people or technology – and how do you think about data and its importance in IPM?
Dr Peter Ellsworth: There’s no reason for IPM without people because we define what a pest is. I always say no bug was born to be bad, we make it bad. We place value on specific things in our world, whether that’s agricultural production, or having a mosquito-free home, or running a non-rat-infested restaurant.
Dr Paul Grundy: From a technology and research perspective, we use data to understand and describe what’s going on and to determine whether what we’re putting in place is successful or otherwise. So, if we look at pesticide use data and then we look at pest resistance testing data, often you can match those to data sets up to understand on-farm changes. Typically, a change in resistance will more than reflect a change in chemical use patterns, which is why it’s important to have that on-farm data. We have a saying in Australia which is “If you can’t measure it, you can’t manage it”.
How important is international collaboration in IPM?
Dr Paul Grundy: I’ve learned a lot from international collaboration. For example, in preparation for the possibility that Begomoviruses might enter Australia following the spread of its vector, the silver leaf whitefly in the mid-2000’s, we assembled a team that went to Pakistan to learn what we could from those with experience and form connections with people who we would be able to talk to should this problem emerge in Australia. That since came around full circle through Better Cotton – with my subsequent involvement with Pakistan researchers who have wanted to learn from us how to better implement IPM. The exchange of information is always valuable in both directions.
Dr Peter Ellsworth: I’ve worked a lot in northern Mexico. Sometimes people say, “You’re in US cotton, why are you helping Mexican growers?” I say that they’re our neighbours and any problem they have could be ours. They jointly eradicated boll weevil and pink bollworm with us, for example. They’re important partners in business and in everything.
Some people asked the same question about why I’m coming to Brazil, but I don’t look at the cotton industry in terms of competitors. I do think as an industry worldwide, there are many more ties that bind than separate.
Photo Credit: Better Cotton, Ashvini Shandi. Location: Hingla, Maharashtra, India. Description: Manisha during her field visits to Better Cotton farmers.
While women play a pivotal role in the cotton sector across the world, they are frequently held back by many forms of discrimination, leading to underrepresentation in decision-making, lower wages, less access to resources, limited mobility, increased threats of violence and other serious challenges.
Gender discrimination is a key issue in the cotton sector, which is why ensuring that all workers enjoy decent working conditions, with fair pay and equal opportunities for learning and progression, is a top priority for Better Cotton, laid out in our Principles and Criteria.
This year, in recognition of International Women’s Day, we want to celebrate those building workplaces where women can thrive. In order to do so, we spoke with Manisha Giri, a Producer Unit Manager (PUM) from India. Manisha has been driving change through her Farmer Producer Organisation (FPO), an organisation that helps members to save costs, achieve fairer prices for their cotton, and develop new ways to boost their income. We sat down with her to learn about her experiences.
Please could you tell us a little bit about yourself?
My name is Manisha Giri, I am 28 years old, and I live in Palodi, a village in the Indian state of Maharashtra. I have been working as a PUM with Better Cotton since 2021, having completed a BSc in Agriculture at the VNMKV University in Parbhani.
As a PUM, my responsibilities include planning, data monitoring, and solving challenges faced by Field Facilitators (FFs). I have oversight on FF training sessions, which are provided to both cotton farmers and cotton workers. I also cross-check with farmers and workers whether minimum wages are being duly paid, whether workers are being forced to work by farmers, whether they are facing any sort of discrimination, and whether there is any pay parity based on gender.
Do you feel like your workplace allows women to thrive?
When I joined, I wasn’t confident, I was always nervous and I questioned myself, as it is a big project. To help me, the Programme Partner team constantly gave examples of the many female Better Cotton staff members in the India team in order to motivate me. They always said that once women are determined to do something, they end up achieving it. When I see women around me fulfilling their personal responsibilities whilst working at a high level, it really motivates me.
What is your proudest achievement?
Getting women together and starting a FPO with them is something I am very proud of. This was a big achievement for me, as gathering women for training and collective action in villages is very difficult. Sometimes, even though the woman wants to participate, their families or husbands don’t allow them.
What other challenges did you face, and how did you overcome them?
We realised that organic carbon in our area was fast depleting and farmers had no livestock anymore, so we zeroed in on making compost for farmers in the FPO. We decided to start with vermicomposting, allowing us to promote sustainable agriculture. Now, 300 female Better Cotton farmers are working with the FPO, and we have reached a point where the demand is so high that we are falling short of vermi beds.
Photo credit: Better Cotton, Punam Ghatul. Location: Hingla, Maharashtra, India. Description: Picking is one of the most labour-intensive activities, done mostly by women. Manisha with farmers and workers are here engaged in this activity.
What did you learn from this experience?
As a working woman, I have my own identity even though when I am back home, I continue to take care of my family. I want women to go beyond being recognised as someone’s wife – perhaps eventually men will be recognised as someone’s husband.
What changes do you hope to see in the next ten years?
With the entrepreneurial training sessions that are being conducted, I had set myself a target of getting 32 entrepreneurs trained, and setting up five businesses. However, I have already achieved my three-year target in one year, setting up 30 businesses.
In the next ten years, I expect that people will use exclusively vermicompost, and we will contribute to slowing down climate change. Due to the decreased use of chemical pesticides and increased use of biopesticides, farmers will get increased yield with less expenditure.
I predict that we will have more female staff, and I envision women playing an integral part in decision-making. Women will come to us with ideas to expand their businesses, and they will become independent entrepreneurs.
Photo credit: Better Cotton, Vitthal Siral. Location: Hingla, Maharashtra, India. Description: Manisha with a field facilitator, conducting a training session with farmers on field.
Read more about Better Cotton’s work on women’s empowerment:
Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Eva Benavidez Clayton Location: SLC Pamplona, Goiás, Brazil, 2023. Description: Dr Peter Ellsworth demonstrates how to sample and monitor leaves for pests, with Dr Paul Grundy (second from left) and Better Cotton employees João Rocha (centre) and Fábio Antônio Carneiro (far left).
Better Cotton today announces an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) workshop organised in collaboration with ABRAPA, the Brazilian Association of Cotton Producers. Taking place in Brasilia, Brazil, from 28 February to 2 March, the workshop will bring sector experts together to discuss IPM, with the aim of sharing research and innovative initiatives regarding the control of pests and diseases in the cotton crop.
Spread across three days, the workshop will gather national experts on IPM in Brazil and showcase international and national best practices related to reducing the use of chemical pesticides. This will include sessions from Dr Paul Grundy, Technical Lead for IPM at CottonInfo in Australia, who will present a case study on reducing synthetic pesticide use, and Dr Peter Ellsworth, Professor of Entomology at the University of Arizona, who will put forward IPM strategy recommendations for Brazilian producers. National best practices will be presented and discussed by representatives from Embrapa, state-based cotton grower associations, the Brazilian Ministry of Agriculture & Livestock, and research institutions.
The event will include a field visit to SLC, a Better Cotton and ABRAPA-licensed farm which has seen success in adopting IPM practices, including the use of biological pest control and other alternatives to synthetic pesticides to treat its cotton plants. Experts from Better Cotton and ABRAPA will also give presentations, as participants come together to look at both the challenges and the opportunities for Brazilian producers.
ABRAPA has been Better Cotton’s Strategic Partner since 2013, when its own sustainable cotton certification programme (ABR) was successfully benchmarked against the Better Cotton Standard System – BCSS. Today, 84% of Brazilian large farms participate in both certifications and Brazil is currently the largest producer of Better Cotton, representing approximately 42% of global production.
In a tropical climate with intense pest pressure, in particular from the boll weevil pest, and with a longer agronomic cycle than other crops (up to 200 days in some available varieties), Brazilian cotton farmers face a real challenge in reducing their use of pesticides to protect their crops. The ABR programme works to meet this challenge, promoting research, field training in IPM and labour and environmental care. The workshop will enable participants to discuss a roadmap for a national Brazilian IPM strategy, strengthening the ABR and the international partnership with Better Cotton.
2023 marks the tenth anniversary of our partnership with ABRAPA, during which time we have worked together to identify and promote good practices and bring greater benefits to cotton producers, workers, and the environment. One of the key challenges we face in making the cotton sector more sustainable for all is minimising the harmful impact of crop protection, which is why events like this workshop are so integral to our work. I look forward to collaborating with Better Cotton’s partners in Brazil to deliver technical recommendations on Integrated Pest Management.
Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton
Alexandre Schenkel, President of ABRAPA and cotton grower, noted that given the natural climate and soil conditions in Brazil, which does not have harsh winters or other factors that break the cycle of pests and diseases, the use of pesticides within an IPM model is a key sustainability issue.
Brazilian cotton producers are rational in the use of these inputs, which, in fact, represent the largest portion of their agricultural costs. Each day, we are adding other technologies to our IPM, with a great emphasis on biological solutions.
Alexandre Schenkel, President, ABRAPA
He also stated that finding sustainable solutions to protect cotton crops and fostering the adoption of better agricultural practices are top priorities for ABRAPA, highlighted in the ABR programme.
ABR has been increasingly recognised by markets, governments and society and, this year it completes a decade of benchmarking with Better Cotton, the global leader in licensing responsibly produced cotton.
Alexandre Schenkel, President, ABRAPA
To find out more about Better Cotton’s work in Brazil, head to this link.
Despite a challenging economic environment, Better Cotton saw a significant increase in support in 2022 as it welcomed 410 new members, a record for Better Cotton. Today, Better Cotton is proud to count more than 2,500 members representing the entire cotton sector as part of our community.
74 of the 410 new members are Retailer and Brand Members, who play a vital role in creating demand for more sustainable cotton. The new Retailer and Brand Members come from 22 countries – such as Poland, Greece, South Korea, Thailand, the United Arab Emirates and more – highlighting the organisation’s global reach and the demand for change across the cotton sector. In 2022, the Better Cotton sourced by 307 Retailer and Brand Members represented 10.5% of world cotton, demonstrating the relevance of the Better Cotton approach to systemic change.
We are delighted to have 410 new members joining Better Cotton during 2022, showing recognition of the importance of Better Cotton’s approach to achieving transformation in the sector. These new members demonstrate their support for our efforts and commitment to our mission.
Paula Lum Young Bautil, Director of Membership and Supply Chain, Better Cotton
Members fall within five key categories: civil society, producer organisations, suppliers and manufacturers, retailers and brands and associate members. No matter the category, members are aligned on the benefits of sustainable farming and are committed to the Better Cotton vision of a world where more sustainable cotton is the norm and farming communities thrive.
Below, read what a few of these new members think about joining Better Cotton:
Through our social purpose platform, Mission Every One, Macy’s, Inc. is committed to creating a more equitable and sustainable future for all. Better Cotton’s mission of promoting better standards and practices within the cotton industry is integral to our goal of achieving 100% preferred materials in our private brands by 2030.
Macy’s US
JCPenney is firmly committed to providing high-quality, affordable and responsibly sourced products for our customers. As a proud member of Better Cotton, we hope to drive industry-wide sustainable practices that improve lives and livelihoods around the world and further our mission of serving America’s diverse, working families. Our partnership with Better Cotton will better enable us to meet our customers’ expectations and deliver on our sustainable fiber goals.
JCPenney, US
Joining Better Cotton was important to Officeworks to promote responsible sourcing and help transform the global cotton industry, both from a human rights and an environmental perspective. As part of our People and Planet Positive 2025 commitments, we are committed to sourcing goods and services in more sustainable and responsible ways, including sourcing 100% of our cotton as Better Cotton, organic cotton, Australian cotton or recycled cotton for our Officeworks private label products by 2025.
Officeworks, Australia
As part of our All Blue sustainability strategy, we aim to expand our sustainable product collection and reduce our greenhouse gas emissions. At Mavi, we prioritise not harming nature during production and ensuring that all of our All Blue design choices are sustainable. Our Better Cotton membership will help to raise awareness among our customers and within our own ecosystem. Better Cotton, with its social and environmental benefits, is included in Mavi’s definition of sustainable cotton and supports Mavi’s sustainability goals.
Better Cotton today announces that both Liz Hershfield, Senior Vice President, and Head of Sustainability at J.Crew Group and SVP of Sourcing at Madewell, and Kevin Quinlan, Independent Member, have been appointed to the Better Cotton Council. As new members, they will be involved in shaping the organisation’s policy that supports cotton communities to survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.
Liz brings nearly 30 years’ experience in sustainability, supply chains and operations across the apparel industry for both start-ups and globally established brands. She initially joined J.Crew Group as SVP of Sourcing and Sustainability at Madewell in 2019. Under her leadership, she has led the company’s initiatives in regenerative agriculture and resale, and helped ensure sustainability is incorporated across all aspects of the J.Crew Group’s brand.
Kevin has worked within senior policy, finance, corporate and operational roles for the past 30+ years. He is currently the Scottish Government’s Director of Environment and Forestry overseeing efforts to protect the environment, increase biodiversity and address climate change-related issues. In joining the Council, he will occupy an independent seat not affiliated with his work in government.
It brings me great pleasure to welcome Liz and Kevin to the Better Cotton Council as they bring a great deal of experience and expertise to our ranks. We look forward to working with them and I’ve no doubt that they’ll be hugely influential in advancing the organisation’s work.
Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton
The Better Cotton Council sits at the centre of the organisation and is responsible for its strategic direction. Council members represent brands, retailers, manufacturers, suppliers, producers, and civil society across the cotton industry.
Throughout my 30-year career, I have always been passionate about advancing sustainability in the fashion and apparel sectors. As more and more brands seek to integrate responsible farming and sourcing initiatives into their supply chains, I believe the opportunities to educate and instil best practices have never been greater. It is an honour to be joining the Better Cotton Council at this very exciting time, and I look forward to working hard to drive meaningful, long-term change in how companies source sustainably-grown cotton.
Liz Hershfield, Senior Vice President of Sourcing, Madewell, and Head of Sustainability, J.Crew Group
Better Cotton’s mission aligns to my values and reinforces two of my passions for change. Firstly, over twenty years of international development work with Oxfam and the UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office to enable rural markets to work better for low-income people. Secondly, it resonates strongly with the sustainability policy issues that we grapple with daily to ensure human prosperity in harmony with nature.
Kevin Quinlan, Independent Member
Read more about the Better Cotton Council and Governance here.
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These updates are intended to reflect changes to the Better Cotton Platform’s default sharing settings and data use in our Audit management system.
You don’t need to do anything to accept these changes – they’re effective from today, 2 April 2025.
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