Page 46 – Better Cotton Initiative

Call for contributions: Better Cotton Production Principles and Criteria Revision

Well Studio on December 18, 2015

In spring 2015, BCI began a comprehensive review of its Production Principles and Criteria as part of its commitment to the ISEAL code of good practice.

BCI has now launched its public consultation phase, which runs until 3 February 2016. During this phase, BCI invites the general public and cotton sector stakeholders to provide their feedback viaour website.

The BCI Production Principles and Criteria present the global definition of Better Cotton. By following its six principles, BCI farmers produce cotton in a way that is measurably better for the environment and farming communities. The principles and associated criteria were first published in 2010. Since then, minor amendments and structural changes have been made.

BCI considers continuous improvement a pillar of its work, and has committed to regularly assessing its approach. The Production Principles and Criteria review process is part of its ongoing effort to uphold best practice in responsible cotton production.

”This consultation is anopportunity for cotton sector stakeholders and beyond to address the most significant global social and environmental issues associated with cotton cultivation, and to explain the intended outcomes by having the Principles and Criteria met.Retailers, ginners, spinners, traders, NGOs, trade unions, producer organizations and large independent cotton farmers are invited to come around the table during the next two months and contribute to redefining BCI’s sustainability ambition for years to come,”says Gregory Jean, BCI Standard and Learning Manager.

Several sustainability-related changes are being proposed to the Production Principles and Criteria, including amendments to land use, natural resource management and social issues. Significant changes to the structure are also being suggested.

During the revision process thusfar, BCI has consulted with cotton experts, scientists, advisers, environmental organisations and retailers to help inform the content of the review. The BCI Standard Setting and Revision Committee has provided detailed input and helped design the current version of the proposed draft.

To contribute feedback, views or expertise to the review process, please visit our website and follow the instructions. For further information, please contact , Gregory Jean, BCI Standard and Learning Manager.

2014 Harvest Report released

Well Studio on November 9, 2015

BCI is pleased to announce the publication of our 2014 Harvest Report. The report details Better Cotton harvest data at global and field levels in 2014, and completes the second of two reporting phases for the year — the first being our Annual Report.

Important highlights include:
» 1.2 million farmers participated in BCI’s programme – up 79 percent from 2013.

» BCI farmers produced 2 million metric tonnes of Better Cotton lint – a 118 percent increase on the previous year.

» Better Cotton made up 7.6 percent of global cotton production.

» Better Cotton was grown in 20 countries worldwide, five more than in 2013.

» As an example of country results, Better Cotton farmers in Pakistan used 15% less pesticide, 19% less synthetic fertiliser, 18% less water and increased their profits by 46% as compared to comparison farmers.

We’re extremely proud of everything we achieved in 2014. Most notably the year’s results confirmed the underlying premise of our model: higher yields, reduced inputs of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, resulting in much higher income for our farmers. As the 2015 season continues, we’re making strong progress towards establishing Better Cotton as a more sustainable mainstream commodity.

A note on timing: Better Cotton is sown and harvested in different annual cycles across the world, and when releasing data, we must first collect, check and collate information from every region. For this reason, our 2014 harvest data is ready for distribution late in the following year.

Pioneer Member IKEA reaches 100% more sustainable cotton

Well Studio on October 30, 2015

IKEA announces that since September 2015, 100 percent of its cotton comes from more sustainable sources. This achievement highlights the impressive work of BCI’s Pioneer Members, who together are driving change in the cotton industry.

BCI’s Pioneer Members are a group of visionary retailers and brands leading the way to more sustainable business practices. In addition to IKEA, adidas, H&M, Nike, Levi Strauss & Co. and M&S have all set ambitious public targets pledging to source more sustainable cotton.

”We are very proud of the work we do with our members. Their commitment to BCI is extremely important to us, as it helps support the work of our farmers and drives demand for Better Cotton throughout the supply chain,” says Paola Geremicca, BCI Programme Director of Fundraising and Communications.

It is five years since BCI Farmers produced their first Better Cotton harvest, and there are now over one million farmers growing Better Cotton in 20 countries. By 2020, BCI aims to reach 5 million farmers worldwide.

Richard Holland, Director of the WWF Market Transformation Initiative, says the goal has always been ”a world in which cotton is produced with substantially less impact on people and nature, and with farmers making a decent living from growing the crop.”

Upon its milestone, BCI applauds IKEA’s achievement and celebrates the work of all our members. BCI has over 600 members sourcing and supplying Better Cotton at all stages of the textile supply chain. Led by a group of pioneering organisations, they can be proud of their efforts to make a responsible alternative the mainstream norm.

BCI’s Programme Director of Demand, Ruchira Joshi, says, ”BCI is its members. We could not have gotten this far without their ongoing support and commitment. We remain a member-led organisation and welcome all stakeholders in the textile supply chain to join us in improving the future of cotton.”

Pioneer Members unveil ethical ranges

Well Studio on October 14, 2015

BCI Pioneer Members continue to generate exciting publicity around their commitments to more sustainable cotton. Their messages highlight the importance of improving cotton production worldwide while naming BCI as a key component of their sustainability portfolios. BCI’s Pioneer Members include some of the world’s biggest brands and retailers, and their campaigns help to raise the profile of BCI both among consumers and throughout the supply chain. Recent initiatives by Marks & Spencer and Levi Strauss & Co. featuring Better Cotton have prompted conversations about the role of sustainability in fashion.

Marks & Spencer has teamed with eco-activist, Livia Firth, to produce 25 pieces of sustainable clothing featuring responsibly sourced wool, leather and suede from eco-tanneries. The ”Livia Firth Edit” complements Marks & Spencer’s Plan A, a programme aimed at responsible sourcing, reducing waste and helping communities, and it’s support of the Better Cotton Initiative.

Levi Strauss & Co. announced the launch of its Wellthread Collection, which features 100% recyclable clothing made with less water and with special care for factory workers. From farm to factory, Levi Strauss & Co. strives to produce clothing that’s better for people and the planet. Sourcing responsible raw materials, like Better Cotton, is one way Levi Strauss & Co. promotes more sustainable practices.

In addition to the ranges released by M&S and Levi Strauss & Co., other BCI Pioneer Members have showcased their support of BCI across media channels in 2015. BCI featured in a blog post by adidas and a spread in IKEA’s 2015 catalogue. Together with Cotton Australia, Nike funded a video highlighting the business case for Better Cotton, and H&M produced a video featuring Better Cotton as one of its ”Conscious materials.”

BCI is proud to provide strategic marketing support to its members, allowing them to bring positive messages about cotton and sustainability to their customers.

New On-Product Mark

Well Studio on September 23, 2015

The Better Cotton Initiative announces a new on-product mark, which allows BCI members to demonstrate their commitment to responsibly sourced Better Cotton directly on the products they sell.

”We’re thrilled to launch our first on-product mark. We expect demandfor more sustainable cotton toincrease as consumers learn more about BCI, taking uscloser to our 2020 target of30% ofglobal cotton production,” says Paola Geremicca, Director of Fundraising and Communications.

In addition to off product messaging, the BCI on-product mark showcases members’ commitment to responsibly grown cotton.The on-product mark will be the BCI logo accompanied by a text claim, such as: ”We partner with the Better Cotton Initiative to improve cotton farming globally.” Together with our logo, the commitment claim will be used to explain and substantiate the mark for the consumer.

At this stage, the BCI logo and claim will represent Mass-Balance Chain of Custody or traceability requirements and will not imply Better Cotton content. Mass-balance traceability does not require physical segregation of the Better Cotton fibre along the supply chain. Instead, actors in the supply chain record the number of Better Cotton Claim Units (BCCUs) they’ve received with a product such as yarn, and allocate these units to the product sold to next actor, such as fabric, so that the amount ”allocated” does not exceed the amount ”received.”

BCI’s aim is to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a mainstream commodity. The BCI on-product mark contributes to that mission, helping to influence the choices people make when buying cotton products.

To learn more about BCI and the on-product mark, visit our website or contact the Communications Team.

BCI Council Names Alan McClay as New CEO

Well Studio on September 2, 2015

We are pleased to announcethat ourCouncil has appointed Alan McClay to serve as the new CEO of BCI, with effect from September 28th. Alan replaces Patrick Laine who is retiring, but will continue to manage specific BCI projects during a transition period.

”We are absolutely delighted with this appointment,” commented Susi Proudman, Chair of the BCI Council (and Vice President of Global Apparel Materials at Nike, Inc.). ”Alan’s prior experience, including 25 years in senior leadership roles influencing sectoral behavior in the consumer goods industry, well-qualifies him for the challenges facing BCI. The lessons he has learned in building partnerships and delivering results at The Consumer Goods Forum and its predecessor entity will serve us well as we strive to recruit dozens of new brands and retailers to our initiative. Moreover,his recent consulting work with NGOs and companies engaging in the sustainability journey will ensure our message will resonate with our target audiences. Finally, Alan’s Cambridge, Sciences Po and London Business School educational background provides a framework of strategic thinking which will be of great utility as we grow and develop.”

”It is an honour to have been selected to lead the BCI during its next phase of growth”, said Alan McClay. ”BCI has a solid strategy in place, and a clear vision of where it wants to be in 2020. I look forward to working with the Council and leading the BCI team, in alliance with its many partners around the globe, to deliver that vision of achieving transformation in the cotton sector. BCI’s program of improved farming practices will not only contribute to the improved well-being of millions of farmers and a better environment, but also promote increased use of cotton by global brands, helping to ensure the long term viability of the sector.”

BCI exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future, by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. To achieve this mission, BCI works with a diverse range of stakeholders across the cotton supply chain to promote measurable and continuing improvements for the environment, farming communities and the economies of cotton-producing areas.

Better Cotton and USFIA Collaborate to Promote Responsible Cotton Sourcing

Well Studio on September 1, 2015

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) announce that they will collaborate to promote responsible cotton sourcing. As of today, BCI is an Associate Member of USFIA, and USFIA is a member of BCI.

USFIA represents the fashion industry, including textile and apparel brands, retailers, importers and wholesalers, based in the United States and doing business globally.

The Better Cotton Initiative is a not-for-profit organisation working with a multi-stakeholder group of organisations to support responsible cotton production worldwide.

”USFIA is thrilled to partner with BCI,” says Julia K. Hughes, President of USFIA. ”Our members, which include iconic global brands and major retailers, are committed to responsible sourcing at all levels in the supply chain. By collaborating with and learning from BCI, our members will be able to enhance that commitment from literally the ground up.”

The partnership allows BCI and USFIA to mutually benefit from each other’s expertise. BCI will provide information about supporting responsibly grown cotton to USFIA members. In turn, USFIA can support BCI members in navigating the complex sourcing issues in the United States and around the globe. Through publications, educational events and networking opportunities, USFIA will enable BCI to connect with key stakeholders across the value chain, including US and international service providers, suppliers and industry groups.

”As BCI continues to expand in the US, we’re excited to join a reputable organisation like USFIA. In such a rapidly changing industry, we look forward to exploring how this partnership can enable the supply chain of the future,” says Daren Abney, Membership Engagement Manager at BCI.

To find out more about BCI and USFIA, visit their websites.

Better Cotton and Levi Strauss & Co: Better Cotton is Good for Business

Well Studio on August 20, 2015

Patrick Laine, CEO of the Better Cotton Initiative, and Michael Kobori, Vice President of Sustainability at Levi Strauss & Co., spoke with Robert Antoshak, Managing Director of Olah Inc., about BCI and how it can benefit American cotton producers. The interview was conducted live for Ag Market Network on Thursday, 13 August 2015. It is archived on the Ag Market Network website and is available for download on iTunes and Google Play.

After the first year of its USA pilot programme, BCI plans to expand operations in the United States. Laine explained that the organisation’s motivation for doing so came from BCI brands and retailers.

”The reason we’re coming to the USA is because the customers of American cotton producers have asked us to,” said Laine.

One brand encouraging BCI to work in the United States is Levi Strauss & Co.

”By 2020, 75% of all the cotton that we use will be qualified as Better Cotton. As a huge user of US cotton, we’re definitely interested in getting the programme to US growers,” said Kobori.

For brands and retailers, demonstrating sustainable practices is increasingly important and many view responsible sourcing as smart business.

Kobori said, ”That’s how our company views sustainability in general. It’s certainly a competitive advantage if you communicate it properly to the consumer, and it’s something that consumers are more and more aware of and want.”

Both acknowledged that US farmers are already some of the most advanced and socially responsible in the world. Laine explained that participation in the BCI programme gives American farmers a structured and legitimate framework allowing them to be recognised for the good work they’re already doing.

When asked if Better Cotton can give cotton a competitive advantage, Laine responded, ”We provide brands strong, positive messages that are both credible and relevant to their businesses. That’s good news for the brands, that’s good news for the cotton industry.”

For more information about BCI’s USA programme, visit our website or contact our USA Country Manager Scott Exo at [email protected].

Simon Corish Elected Chairman of Cotton Australia

Well Studio on August 18, 2015

BCI Council Member, Simon Corish, has been elected Chairman of Cotton Australia.

Simon Corish, a cotton grower from Goondiwindi, was elected Chairman of Cotton Australia following the organisation’s Annual General Meeting in Narrabri, Australia on 5 August. Corish was formerly Deputy Chairman of the organisation. Since 2014, Corish has represented cotton producers on the Better Cotton Initiative’s Council where he has played an important role in promoting responsibly grown cotton to world markets.

”We are delighted that Simon Corish has been elected Chairman of Cotton Australia,” said BCI Programme and Partnership Manager, Corin Wood-Jones.

”In working with Simon and the rest of the board, we look forward to a continued and productive partnership between BCI and Cotton Australia.”

Cotton Australia is an industry trade group representing Australian cotton farmers and corporations. Since 2014, BCI and Cotton Australia have worked together in an official partnership enabling myBMP cotton – the Australian cotton industry’s standard for growing cotton in an environmentally and ethically responsible way – to be sold as Better Cotton. Working with BCI bridges the gap for Australian cotton producers allowing them to respond to demand from retailers and brands worldwidefor more sustainably grown cotton.

Corish replaces Lyndon Mulligan as Chairman. Hamish McIntyre was elected the Deputy Chairman, and Board members Barb Grey and Jeremy Callachor were both re-elected.

”On behalf of the Cotton Australia Board I would like to thank Lyndon Mulligan for his tireless dedication and enormous contribution to Cotton Australia and the industry,” Mr. Corish said.

”Lyndon’s strong leadership has helped secure the future of Cotton Australia and the growers it represents, and the members of the Board and I look forward to continuing the strategy he has set in motion.”

To read more about BCI’s partnership withCotton Australia, visit our website.

Woolworths and Suppliers Work to Meet Better Cotton Target

Well Studio on August 5, 2015

In 2005, Woolworths launched a responsible business strategy known as “The Good Business Journey,” which focuses in part on sustainable fibres. While implementing the strategy, Woolworths identified cotton as the biggest part of their fibre footprint in apparel. In addition to organic cotton, Woolworths needed further elements of sustainable cotton to meet their goals.

“BCI met our requirements best because it talks toall aspects of growingcotton in a better way,” saidHugo Lemon, Product Technologist, Woolworths (Pty) Ltd.

Woolworths joined BCI in July 2014 with the goal of converting 15% of their cotton lint to Better Cotton by 2017. Meeting their target meant collaborating with suppliers, particularly in southern Africa, to increase their capacity to supply Better Cotton – a process which took a little over a year.”A joint collaborative and transformational approach made this work easier and has resulted in a firm commitment as a business to continually strive to do things in a better way,”said Lemon.

Woolworths selected its supply base for its capacity to service a broad spectrum of product categories, with the specific intent of converting big running lines into Better Cotton content. Along with these impressive efforts to date, Woolworths continue to work with their suppliers globally to develop a wider supply network of Better Cotton.

Prilla 2000, one of Woolworths’ suppliers, has been a valuable partner in making the procurement of Better Cotton a reality. The largest independent spinning mill in South Africa, Prilla joined BCI in February 2015 in response to demand from retailers, like Woolworths, for sustainable cotton.

Prilla works closely with its merchants to secure bales of Better Cotton. As long time buyers of CmiA (Cotton made in Africa) cotton, Prilla took advantage of the benchmarking agreement between AbTF (Aid by Trade Foundation) and BCI. Now they’ve started using their CmiA cotton as CmiA-BCI to fulfil their customers’ Better Cotton orders.

Prilla’s Better Cotton targets focus on supporting demand from customers in South Africa. They’ve had success in the region so far, and they’re hoping to expand their program to growers and retailers in other parts of the world.

Brands and Growers Talk Responsible Cotton: New Video

Well Studio on July 22, 2015

In a new short video, stakeholders speak to the importance of Better Cotton as a mainstream sustainability solution.

Key leaders from major brands, farm coops, grower associations and more were interviewed for the video during a BCI sponsored USA stakeholder workshop. Convened by the Better Cotton Initiative, the workshop was held at NIKE Inc. headquarters in Portland, OR earlier this year.

In the video, BCI Pioneer members Nike and Levi Strauss & Co., representatives from Cotton Australia, and social and environmental organisations, like World Wildlife Fund and the Nature Conservancy, all discuss the importance of more responsible cotton and the business case for producing it.

Brands such as Nike and Levi Strauss & Co. have made major public commitments to sourcing more sustainable cotton. Susi Proudman, Vice President, Apparel Materials at NIKE, Inc. and BCI Council Chair, explained that Nike aims to procure 100% more sustainable cotton by 2020. ”BCI is not a niche organisation – it has real opportunity to change the industry and to address the scale issues that we need,” she said.

Cotton producers are seeing major retailers commit to procuring more sustainable cotton and Better Cotton as a key opportunity to be a part of the market share. Australian cotton grower Simon Corish encourages farmers to get on board: ”My fellow farmers, they’re already doing the right things, they’ve just got to get out there and promote what they’re doing. It is a little bit of paperwork, but I think the benefits longer term will be forthcoming.” Jesse Curlee, President of the US association Supima, said his organisation participates for very practical business reasons. ”Our customers showed interest in BCI. They wanted BCI Supima cotton, and we want to do what our customers want us to do.”

The stakeholder workshop recapped the first year of the US Better Cotton pilot project. Growers shared results and lessons learned from their first growing season and suggested improvements for future years. Twenty-two farms in four states (Arkansas, Texas, New Mexico and California) took part in the 2014 pilot project, and together they produced over 11,000 metric tons (26 million lbs) of Better Cotton lint. For more information on the US pilot project, click here.

To learn more about BCI operations in the United States visit our websiteor contact Scott Exo, US Country Manager, at [email protected].

Better Cotton Reach 600 Members

Well Studio on July 6, 2015

We are proud to announce that the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has reached 600 members.

For five years, BCI has worked with all actors throughout the supply chain, working together towards the mission: to make Better Cotton a mainstream commodity. BCI was founded on the premise that this sector collaboration would be essential to achieving true, global transformation. Growing to 600 members marks a “tipping point’ for BCI in which achieving this transformation is possible. All sections of the supply chain are represented in membership, from producer organisations to retailers and brands.

44 retailer and brand members have played a key role in this journey so far – investing in farmer capacity building and driving supplier engagement. They remain committed to the uptake of Better Cotton and helping to build a more transparent and trustworthy cotton supply chain.

BCI has experienced a remarkable growth in membership over the last few years and are well on track to achieve the target of 700 members in 2015, making this the fifth consecutive year with an increase of 50% or more of new members. The recruitment rate continues to progress at an average rate of 25 new companies per month.

New members to have recently signed up includeG-Star RAW C.V., Thomas Pink Ltd., HEMA B.V and Cone Denim – the first US based Fabric mill to join BCI, supplying BCI Pioneer Member Levi Strauss with Better Cotton for their ranges.

“The BCI membership demonstrates the power of collaboration. 600 actors from a globally spread and complex supply chain uniting behind a common vision is truly unique and inspiring. Together we can definitely achieve our goal of 30% of cotton production as Better Cotton by 2020,’ said Ruchira Joshi, Programme Director for Demand.

Being a member of BCI means supporting the BCI mission as part of your organisation’s involvement in cotton and committing to improving cotton production through both your own actions and through direct financial investments. To find out more about our membership offer,Click Here,or for enquiries, contact our membership team by e-mailing:[email protected].

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Call for contributions: Better Cotton Production Principles and Criteria Revision

Call for contributions: Better Cotton Production Principles and Criteria Revision

2014 Harvest Report released

Pioneer Member IKEA reaches 100% more sustainable cotton

Pioneer Members unveil ethical ranges

New On-Product Mark

BCI Council Names Alan McClay as New CEO

Better Cotton and USFIA Collaborate to Promote Responsible Cotton Sourcing

Better Cotton and Levi Strauss & Co: Better Cotton is Good for Business

Simon Corish Elected Chairman of Cotton Australia

Woolworths and Suppliers Work to Meet Better Cotton Target

Brands and Growers Talk Responsible Cotton: New Video

Better Cotton Reach 600 Members

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