Q&A with Spectrum International

Spectrum International is a BCI Supplier and Manufacturer Member, Implementing Partner and BCI Council Member. We caught up with CEO, Amit Shah, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Tell us about your membership to BCI and how the partnership began.

Spectrum has been in the sustainability space since 1998, starting with organic farming in India. We were introduced to the Better Cotton Initiative in 2011, and Spectrum subsequently became a local partner to an existing BCI Implementing Partner. We had duel expertise of running farm projects and also procuring materials and channelling them into the supply chains of various brands. This made the partnership with BCI a great fit. In 2013, we became a BCI Supplier and Manufacturer Member, as well as an Implementing Partner. As we only sell sustainable products and services, that put us in a unique position to association ourselves with BCI, and again, the progression to membership seemed natural. I felt that Spectrum International could also contribute further to BCI by becoming a member of the BCI Council, and that was the next step we took. I feel strongly about the way our industry has operated for many decades, with such a long supply chain that skews the focus on core raw materials and the producers. The passion to change that approach drives me to do what I do.

 

Spectrum plays multiple roles in further BCI’s agenda, as a Supplier and Manufacturer Member, an Implementing Partner and a Council Member. Why have you chosen to be so heavily involved?

Spectrum International is part of a group that has been within the textiles industry for almost 79 years. Over the past two decades, we made sustainability not just a core philosophy but also a business driver in terms of shaping where the company goes. In 1998, this wasn’t common for companies and it wasn’t always easy, but as we progressed, we found that we gained a unique position within the supply chain. We’ve worked across ginning, spinning and farming, working with smallholder farmers in India to grow various types of sustainable fibres. As we also cover garment manufacturing, we understand what brands and retailers expect from their suppliers. We felt that with this broad knowledge and experience, representation on the BCI Council would give us a chance to represent the BCI Supplier and Manufacture Members in a fair and just manner.

 

In what ways do you communicate with your customers about Spectrum’s commitment to sustainability, and why is this important?

First and foremost, is our public commitment to trade only sustainable textiles. Over time, this had led our customers to perceive us a specialist. All retailers and brands want to have a long term, reliable and committed supply partner, especially with the sustainability objectives they have today. They need to know that there are suppliers out there who can help them to meet their targets. This is only possible if those suppliers’ commitments are public and communicated well. We highlight our commitments by sharing success stories from cotton farmers and farms. When customers visit farms managed by us, they can see the projects we run and how they are having a positive impact on farmers, the environment and communities. We also communicate via our website, at conferences and trade shows, via media and social media. However, at the heart of all this lies the fact that our customers have confidence that they have a long-term partner who can match their vision with regards to their sustainability targets.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

 

Image© 2017 Spectrum International Pvt. Ltd.

 

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Communicating Commitments to Sustainable Sourcing: Q&A with Gap Inc.

Gap Inc. is a BCI Retailer and Brand Member. We caught up with Bonnie Abrams, Senior Director of Global Brand Management, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Can you tell us why Gap decided to become a member of BCI and what your public target for sourcing more sustainable cotton is?

BCI was an important initiative for Gap to become involved with. Gap as an organisation has looked at sustainability and how to create garments in a thoughtful way since day one, not because of public demand or marketing purposes, but because it was the right thing for our company to do and it mattered to the founders. As Gap has become a much larger brand, our scale and scope has also increased, and we need to make sure we are being as sustainable as possible. That could be from how much water we use to produce our denim to how we source our cotton. Becoming a member of BCI was a natural step for us. We realised that the amount of cotton we use is significant, and any opportunity we have to become more sustainable has a significant impact. Our goal now is to source 100% of our cotton from more sustainable sources by 2021.

 

In 2017, Gap Inc. opened a pop-up store in New York with a focus on sustainability – can you tell us more about the initiative and the response it received?

Internally, Gap as a brand has been talking about how we can be more sustainable and thoughtful for 50 years, and we’ve had great opportunities to make major strides in the past few years. We realised that we have been talking about sustainability internally, but we haven’t really shared this with our consumers. Our pop-up store came in the year when we announced our goals with BCI and to source 100% of our cotton as more sustainable by 2021. We wanted to start sharing our work and educating our consumers. It’s something that is important for our consumers, and it’s something they care about. We did this with our pop-up store in New York City, which opened next to one of our flagship stores. The space was dedicated to our sustainability programmes including Better Cotton, the wash-well initiative, and at that time, we had a recycled denim collection. It was very successful. Consumers wanted to know more and learn more. They were also very surprised that Gap was doing this. It inspired us as a brand to go out in a bigger way with sustainable practices and goals. We started sharing this messaging in all stores. This has driven us to not only do this once – we are really looking to be consistent with this message to the consumer always. In fall 2018, you will see in our national campaigns that we address sustainability in a more overt way than we have ever done. We think it’s important that if you have goals, you should communicate them, go out to the public with them and be accountable for reaching them.

 

Do you have plans for further sustainability-focused communications in the future?

2018 marks the first year in which we are going to go out in a bigger way with our sustainability communications. We know these issues are important to our consumers, they want to know more, and they want to align with brands who share their personal values. As of 2018, you’ll see permanent sustainability messaging within Gap stores, highlighting our involvement with BCI, wash-well denim and recycling initiatives, and why these are important to us. We’ll be communicating online too, sharing information via social media and our national advertising campaigns, so that consumers can learn more about our programmes.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

 

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Better Cotton Joins M&S in New Podcast Series

BCI Retailer and Brand Member M&S has launched a new behind-the-scenes podcast series which explores topics such as sustainability and the history of the high street.

In the first episode, BCI’s COO Lena Staafgard joins M&S’s Director of Plan A, Mike Barry, to discuss the sustainable future of cotton.

Listen to the podcast below.Access the M&S podcast series here.

 

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Q&A with Alliance for Water Stewardship

Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) is Member and Partner of BCI. We caught up with CEO, Adrian Sym, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

Can you tell us about Alliance for Water Stewardship’s BCI Membership and the reciprocal relationship the two standards have?

Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) has had reciprocal membership with BCI for a number of years (BCI is also a member of AWS). It’s clear that we should be working very closely together; we are both standard systems and networks. We are both members of the ISEAL Alliance, and we share members. We also share some innovative approaches to standard system development. Adding to that, cotton is such a critical crop and water use is a critical factor in cotton production. It really makes sense for AWS to be a member of BCI and for both standards to work closely.

 

AWS is a global membership-based organisation which brings other organisations together to address a common goal. Can you share some thoughts on collaboration and cross sector partnerships?

To begin with, we define water stewardship in terms of what it should achieve. That means social, environmental and economic benefits and how those are achieved. You can’t address water on a farm-by-farm or household-by-household basis – it is a resource that is inherently shared. Our definition of water stewardship describes the importance of site and catchment-based action, emphasising the need to work in collaboration in areas where we are sharing this vital resource. Collaboration is therefore hardwired into water stewardship – it is part of our DNA. From day one of our efforts to develop and roll out the standard, the explicit objective to collaborate and support existing initiatives has been very clear. We are not trying to replace other standards or initiatives, we are here to support them to do more on water, where water is a critical factor. It’s for that reason that I’m really pleased we’ve been able to input into the revision of the Principles and Criteria component of the Better Cotton Standard System. We are now working alongside BCI and Helvetas to help roll out the new water stewardship approach in India, Pakistan, China, Tajikistan and Mozambique.

 

What would you say are the most important way you communicate with your members and stakeholders about using water in an environmentally sustainable way?

To a large extent, communication really goes to the heart of standard systems. At AWS, we are trying to establish a community that shares its knowledge on water stewardship, where community members can discuss issues and challenges, and share experiences, ideas and lessons in a safe environment. We want the dynamic of our community to be fluid. We don’t operate a linear “proposal and response’ way of exchanging information, but rather, our members have ownership of the learning agenda as well – they don’t have to rely on the few people who work for AWS. Our members are actively engaged in sharing their knowledge and ideas, and I think that leads to some interesting communication. I’m less interested in success stories. We all know this is hard, and sustainable water use is not something we are going to achieve and then pack up and go home – it’s something we are always going to need to work on. We’re interested in taking learnings and using them to create easier processes in the future. We want to understand the “how’ and then scale this up.

 

Listen to the full interview in the accompanying podcast, originally shared in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

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Q&A with adidas

adidas has been a BCI Retailer and Brand Member since 2010. We caught up with Ebru Gencoglu, Senior Manager, Merchandising and Sustainability, to find out more about the organisation’s aims, commitments to Better Cotton, and how they communicate their work to the rest of the world.

 

adidas is close to reaching its target of sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources. How has BCI supported adidas in reaching this ambitious target?

BCI and adidas have worked closely from the beginning to reach this ambitious goal. BCI has engaged actors throughout the supply chain to enable the right amount of supply in the right locations. Led by clearly defined KPIs, BCI has kept the focus on expanding the supply of Better Cotton. This has helped our suppliers to source cotton as Better Cotton, which allowed us to ramp up sourcing in a short period of time.

 

How does adidas’ Better Cotton sourcing target form part of the organisations’ broader sustainability strategy?

We believe that through sport, we have the power to change lives. And we do this every day as a company – by empowering people to live an active life, by teaching life skills through sport, and by creating sustainable products. Our sustainability strategy is deeply rooted in this core belief and as such, our strategic priorities for 2020 are based on products and people. As part of our product ambitions, we strive to develop innovative materials and processes that optimise our environmental impact. We are committed to steadily increasing the volumes of more sustainable materials we source. The Better Cotton Initiative is one example of how we plan to achieve this.

 

Why is it important for adidas to communicate with its customers about its commitments to Better Cotton?

As a large organisation, we have the opportunity – the obligation and capability – to change how things are done. We are a company that integrates sustainability into our business model. It is important for us that our consumers are clear about our commitment and how we are delivering it.

 

As a pioneering BCI Member, what key sustainability changes have you seen the industry address over the past 10 years?

Things have changed quickly over the past several years. Consumers are interested and demanding that we take action when it comes to both social and environmental compliance. We are able to collaborate more and more with supply chain players to innovate and find new solutions. Transparency in the supply chain also keeps improving, enabling companies to choose the right business partners. We are still at the beginning of a long journey when it comes to sustainability. We need to recognise that this is not a sprint but a marathon. Setting the right foundation, however, will be essential to reaching the finishing line.

 

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Save the Date: 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference

 
We are delighted to announce that the 2019 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference will take place in Shanghai, China on 11 – 13 June, 2019.

If you want to know what to expect at the conference, take a look at our 2018 highlights in the video below.

The BCI 2018 Global Cotton Conference was BCI’s largest event to date. More than 340 people from across the cotton sector came together to collaborate on a more sustainable future for cotton.

You can find a summary of the 2018 conference and further detailshere.

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Q&A with Sarob, Better Cotton Implementing Partner in Tajikistan

Cooperative Sarob is BCI’s Implementing Partner in Tajikistan. We caught up with Tahmina Sayfullaeva, Deputy Chairman and BCI coordinator at Cooperative Sarob, to discuss the organisation’s progress to date.

Tell us about your organisation.

Sarob is an organisation of agronomists providing agricultural consultation to cotton farmers in Tajikistan. Our goal is the comprehensive development of agriculture through capacity building, improving access to the market and ensuring cotton farmers have access to the necessary agricultural inputs. As part of our work we provide theoretical and practical training and help farmers to implement new technologies and machinery through demonstrations in the field.

Tell us about Cooperative Sarob’s partnership with the Better Cotton Initiative and the progress made to date.

In 2013, Sarob decided to join BCI in order to create better conditions for cotton production, increase cotton yields and provide cotton farmers with access to a new international market for Better Cotton – cotton produced in line with BCI’s Better Cotton Principles and Criteria. We had the support of the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ) and the Framework and Finance for Private Sector Development (FFPSD) to implement the BCI programme in Tajikistan. In 2017 we worked with 1,263 licensed BCI Farmers covering an area of 17,552 hectares. BCI Farmers are grouped into four Producers Units in the Khatlon and Sughd regions and smallholder farmers are organised into 103 smaller Learning Groups and trained by 100 Field Facilitators. In the 2016-17 season, BCI Farmers in Tajikistan used on average 3% less water, 63% less pesticides and saw 13% higher yields and a 48% increase in profits compared to comparison farmers.

Do you have a specific sustainability challenge which you are addressing as a priority?

We have a strong focus on water stewardship and efficiency as part of our farm management work in Tajikistan. Our methodology is based on implementing water measurement devices which are easily constructed and are of low cost to farmers. Since 2016 we have worked with The Water Productivity Project (WAPRO), a multi-stakeholder initiative to address water efficiency issues in rice and cotton production in Asia – the initiative is implemented by Helvetas in Tajikistan.

 

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Sector-Wide Engagement Drives Large-Scale Change

 
BCI aims for large-scale transformation of global cotton production. We strive to enable as many cotton farmers as possible to gain access to knowledge and tools to improve the environmental, social and economic sustainability of cotton production, and to benefit from implementing improved practices at field-level.

To bring about market transformation and develop Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity, we must be able to scale the BCI programme. BCI has come a long way since the first harvest of Better Cotton in the 2010-11 cotton season – after just eight seasons, BCI has reached nearly 2 million farmers.

Designed to Achieve Scale

  • Sector-Wide: We learnt that in order to lay the foundation for transformational change within the cotton sector and to achieve scale, it was imperative to include diverse stakeholders, all working towards the same goal. Today we are truly a joint effort, uniting more than 1,350 organisations all the way from farms, to fashion and textile brands, to civil society organisations, driving the entire cotton sector towards sustainability.
  • Training Partners: BCI does not train cotton farmers directly, instead we work with trusted Strategic and Implementing Partners across the world, who invest considerable time and funds in implementing the Better Cotton Standard System. In the 2016-17 season we worked with 59 Strategic and Implementing Partners in 21 countries.
  • Collaboration with Other Standards: BCI recognises three other sustainable cotton standards as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard: myBMP, managed by Cotton Australia; ABR, managed by ABRAPA; and CmiA, managed by the Aid by Trade Foundation. Cotton produced to these standards can also be sold as Better Cotton. In addition, BCI looks for opportunities to collaborate with other sustainable cotton initiatives –our collaboration with Cotton 2040 has already led to the launch of CottonUP, a guide which helps retailers and brands scale their use of more sustainable cotton including Better Cotton, organic, Fairtrade, Cotton Made in Africa, myBMP and recycled cotton.
  • Accessibility: There are no additional costs for smallholder farmers to join the BCI programme and to obtain a license to grow and sell Better Cotton. This significantly reduces the barriers to entry. Farmers receive access to training on more sustainable agricultural practices with a focus on continuous improvement.
  • Mass Balance Chain of Custody:Mass Balance is a supply chain methodology, which simply put,means what comes out must balance with what went in. This methodology means Better Cotton can be mixed with conventional cotton in the supply chain. By using a system of Mass Balance, BCI is able to reach more farmers, encourage more sustainable practices to be implemented around the world. Ultimately, BCI is focused on making cotton production better for farmers, the environment it grows in, and better for the sector’s future. Knowing where the Better Cotton ends up does not benefit BCI Farmers. Learn more about Mass Balance here.
  • The Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund: The Fund utilises the Volume Based Fee paid by Retailer and Brand Members, seeks to obtain match funding from public and private donors, and makes strategic investments into Better Cotton projects in the countries where projects have the potential to achieve both impact and scale. This allows BCI and its Partners to reach more regions, train more farmers and produce more Better Cotton, dramatically accelerating the scale-up of Better Cotton worldwide.

Thanks to the continued support of our Members, Partners and donors, from across the entire cotton sector, we are on track to meet our 2020 target – to reach and train 5 million farmers and ensure that Better Cotton accounts for 30% of global cotton production.

You can read more about BCI’s progress in the BCI 2017 Annual Report.

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Better Cotton Joins M&S in New Podcast Series

 
BCI Retailer and Brand Member M&S has launched a new behind-the-scenes podcast series which explores topics such as sustainability and the history of the high street.

In the first episode, BCI’s COO Lena Staafgard joins M&S’s Director of Plan A, Mike Barry, to discuss the sustainable future of cotton.

Listen to the podcast below.Access the M&S podcast series here.

 

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Better Cotton Farmers Results 2017/18

Better Cotton Farmer Results provide an overview of the outcomes Better Cotton Farmers are experiencing at field-level by participating in the Better Cotton programme and adhering to the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria (P&C).

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