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Decent Work: How Better Cotton Partners in India Employed Our New ‘Assess & Address’ Approach to Remediate Child Labour

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Decent Work: How Better Cotton Partners in India Employed Our New ‘Assess & Address’ Approach to Remediate Child Labour

Joe Morphet on August 17, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Vibhor Yadav Location: Kodinar, Gujarat, India. 2019. Description: Hands picking cotton.

By Leyla Shamchiyeva, Senior Decent Work Manager at Better Cotton

Earlier this year, we unveiled the latest iteration of the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria (P&C), the foundational document that defines our farm-level standard, outlining the global framework for Better Cotton. The revision enhances our field-level standard, ensuring its continued effectiveness in driving continuous improvement and fostering sustainability impact.

One of the standout changes within the P&C is the introduction of the ‘assess and address’ approach to Decent Work. Inspired by Rainforest Alliance’s methodology, this approach departs from a rigid zero-tolerance stance towards infringements, which has historically hampered the open disclosure of issues and eroded trust with partners. Instead, it promotes greater transparency and proactivity in identifying and rectifying issues.

Amanda Noakes, our Global Decent Work and Human Rights Coordinator, elaborates on the approach and how it encourages collaboration in her insightful blog on the subject:

It aims to work together with producers and communities to tackle the root causes of human and labour rights challenges, holistically and collaboratively. It also puts a greater emphasis on supporting and investing in field-level systems and stakeholder collaboration to prevent, mitigate, identify and address issues, so that responsibility and accountability are locally owned and shared.

Amanda Noakes, Global Decent Work and Human Rights Coordinator, Better Cotton

A great illustration of how the ‘assess and address’ approach works comes from India, where a recent incident highlighted the effectiveness of the strategy. While conducting regular monitoring activities, our Better Cotton Partners in India identified child labour within their project area. The causes were attributed to a combination of pandemic-related school closures and climatic anomalies like excessive rainfall, which resulted in a sudden demand for labour to harvest crops.

In an open disclosure during a regular Better Cotton licensing assessment visit in Maharashtra, India, our Partners candidly discussed their discovery of child labour. In doing so, they demonstrated their commitment to resolving the issue, outlining their robust monitoring mechanisms. Their in-depth understanding of triggers and risk factors, and their proactive measures to mitigate and prevent recurrence, underscored their determination to address the issue holistically. They engaged the local community, raising awareness on preventing child labour, and collaborated with the Child Labour Monitoring Committee to effectively track risks.

Overcoming initial apprehension, the Partners chose transparency and compliance with the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria. Their efforts yielded positive outcomes, notably in the reduction of child labour risks. This success story is emblematic of the ‘assess and address’ ethos. The Partners’ comprehensive approach not only mitigated the recurrence of child labour, but also indicated the strength of their ongoing vigilance to identify and address other issues in the future.

We strongly encourage all our Partners to adopt transparency and proactively tackle challenges, regardless of the complexities they face. We are firmly committed to assisting them in this through practical capacity strengthening on labour monitoring systems. These tools will empower Partners to identify risks, formulate context-sensitive mitigation strategies, and monitor the efficacy of these measures.

Our ongoing pilot programme in India will yield valuable insights to inform the guidance for our Partners worldwide. The ‘assess and address’ approach will become a requirement for all our Partners with the introduction of the revised Better Cotton Standard v3.0 in the upcoming 2024-25 season.

For the sustainability of this initiative, we must also confront the root causes of child labour, encompassing household poverty and inadequate educational infrastructure in rural areas. This demands a collective effort involving government bodies, civil society channels and businesses benefiting from the labour of the farming communities. As a multi-stakeholder organisation, we actively seek meaningful engagement with all stakeholders to support our Partners in achieving enhanced Decent Work outcomes for Better Cotton farming communities. Together, we can truly make a difference and foster sustainable change.

To find out more about the revision of our Principles and Criteria, click here.

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Why We Made Gender Equality a Cross-cutting Priority in Our Latest Principles and Criteria Revision

Joe Morphet on August 10, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Seun Adatsi. Location: Kolondieba, Mali. 2019 Description: Tata Djire, Agronomist, with Better Cotton Farmers, guiding them on what they should look out for while picking cotton.
Photo credit: Alessandra Barbarewicz

By Alessandra Barbarewicz, Senior Decent Work Officer, Better Cotton

Gender equality is critical to advancing progress across all sustainability outcomes. This is especially true in the cotton sector, where women play a significant role in production. Increasing gender equality is crucial – it’s not just a matter of social justice, but also has proven economic and environmental benefits.

As part of Better Cotton’s 2030 Impact Targets, we have set the target of reaching one million women in cotton with programmes and resources that promote equal farm decision-making, build climate resilience, or support improved livelihoods. In addition, we have committed to ensuring that 25% of field staff are women with the power to influence sustainable cotton production.

In order to meet this target, we need to drive significant change over the next decade. That’s why, in the latest revision of our Principles and Criteria (P&C), the document which lays out the global definition of Better Cotton, we have made Gender Equality a cross-cutting priority across all of our Principles.

As compared to the previous version of the Principles and Criteria, in which Gender Equality was included under the Decent Work principle, v.3.0 incorporates gender throughout the whole document, recognising the critical role of women in cotton production. This revised approach aims to support Better Cotton’s efforts to tackle systemic gender inequalities and promote women’s rights by supporting their participation and inclusion. The updated P&C aims to foster women’s participation and inclusion in all farm activities, looking to achieve this through a number of new measures.

Promoting Gender Equality in Pakistan

Promoting Gender Equality in Pakistan

To find out how Better Cotton is supporting gender inclusion in Pakistan, click here to read a story from the field about how a female farm-worker fulfilled her dream of economic independence.

Firstly, throughout the updated document, we have moved away from a focus on farmers – in certain contexts traditionally identified with male heads of household – to all individuals involved in farm-level cotton production, to ensure that everyone is proactively included in activities related to the implementation of the Better Cotton Standard, regardless of their gender, status, background or other characteristics.

The revised standard also looks to acknowledge that disadvantage and discrimination are not experienced by women alone, and that systems of inequality based on gender, race, ethnicity, sexual orientation, disability, class and other forms of discrimination overlap and create unique dynamics and effects. As such, it highlights that power structures should be seen and addressed in an intersectional way.

Furthermore, we have introduced requirements to the Management Principle which call for a Gender Lead or Gender Committee to identify and effectively address local barriers to women’s inclusion. To comply with this criterion, Producers are required to appoint an individual or committee responsible for identifying and raising awareness on gender-related issues, and to implement their suggestions as part of the activity and monitoring plans.

Lastly, in order to ensure that gender equality is mainstreamed across every farm, assessments on Producers’ efforts to promote women’s inclusion and tackle gender inequalities are now integrated into a range of different indicators across all of our Principles. The full list of these indicators can be found in Annex 1 of the P&C v.3.0 (pages 84-89).

Through our Principles and Criteria and our work across the Better Cotton Standard System, Better Cotton has a significant opportunity to promote the reduction of systemic gender inequality and promote women’s rights by supporting their participation and inclusion. To find out more how the latest revision of the P&C will help us to tackle these challenges, click here.

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Better Cotton Partners With Search For Justice on Child Labour Prevention in Pakistan

Joe Morphet on August 9, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Khaula Jamil Location: Muzaffargarh, Punjab, Pakistan. 2018. Description: Better Cotton Farmer Jam Muhammad Saleem walking to school with his son.

Better Cotton has recently developed a partnership with Search For Justice, a member of the Children’s Advocacy Network and leading not-for-profit organisation working on child protection issues in Pakistan. The partnership is supported by the Better Cotton Growth & Innovation Fund’s (GIF) Knowledge Partner fund, aiming to support Better Cotton and its partner, Rural Education & Economic Development Society (REEDS) on child labour prevention efforts in Rahim Yar Khan, Punjab.

According to a labour force survey carried out by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (2021-22), more than 1.2 million children aged 10-14 are employed in Pakistan, of which 56% are working in the agricultural sector. In reality, Pakistan’s child labour estimates are much higher, with some sources suggesting up to 10 million children, across age groups, engaged in child labour (NRSP, 2012). A rapid assessment of the child labour situation in Rahim Yar Khan and three other Punjab districts, by the National Rural Support Program (NRSP) in 2012, also emphasised the significance of the challenge, estimating approximately 385,000 children engaged in child labour across the four Southern Punjab districts, 26% of which were engaged in cotton farm labour.

Against this backdrop, our 18-month project with Search For Justice aims to strengthen the capacities of 195 field staff, to support increased understanding and awareness at farm level of the difference between age-appropriate child work and child labour. It will also mentor and support field staff on the identification, monitoring and remediation of child labour, including increasing awareness of relevant legal and institutional mechanisms.

Another key ambition of the partnership is to consult with public sector stakeholders in Punjab to support advocacy initiatives on child labour, and decent work, more generally.

With ambitious global targets, set through the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, to end child labour in all its forms by 2025 (SDG 8 – Target 8.7), Better Cotton and its partners are committed to supporting global efforts, taking significant measures to prevent, identify and remediate child labour in cotton farming contexts.

Tackling child labour requires an integrated approach, which considers its multiple underlying causes. This is why Better Cotton considers it fundamental to collaborate with relevant partners to make progress, especially considering the magnitude of the challenge in cotton, and the agricultural sector more generally.

Kamran Kashif, Capacity Building Manager at Better Cotton

We will share information on the progress and outcomes of the partnership as it develops, as well as providing updates on our efforts to strengthen rights protections in cotton production more broadly. If you’d be interested in learning more or supporting Better Cotton in its mission to promote decent work at farm level, please contact Amanda Noakes, Global Decent Work and Human Rights Coordinator.

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Version 3.1 of Better Cotton Claims Framework Launched

Joe Morphet on July 31, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Eugénie Bacher. Harran, Turkey, 2022. Better Cotton labels, Traceability Pilot, Mehmet Kızılkaya Tekstil.

Better Cotton has announced an update to the Better Cotton Claims Framework – the set of guidelines which establishes guidance and rules to ensure that Members can make claims about their commitments to Better Cotton in a credible and positive way. 

The update, version 3.1, simplifies the document for improved usability, including a quick reference table to increase clarity on which claims are available to which member audiences. It also adds new claims translations, as well as clarifications on contexts in which claims can be used and the monitoring process Better Cotton follows.

The most significant update mirrors the Cotton Consumption Independent Assessment requirements in place from January 2024. Independent Assessments will bolster claims and ensure sourcing thresholds are more meaningful, making reporting on volumes of Better Cotton sourced and On-Product Mark use more robust and credible. As of January 2024, Independent Assessment will be a requirement for any Retailer and Brand Member wishing to make advanced claims or use the Better Cotton On-Product Mark. 

Our next complete revision of the Claims Framework (version 4.0) will be released in 2024, further to multistakeholder and cross-functional consultations. Version 4.0 will accommodate Better Cotton’s move towards traceability and further reflect updates to industry best practice and legislation for sustainability claims.

To learn more about our current work on claims and contribute to the conversation, register here for our upcoming webinar, in which we will cover:

  • The Better Cotton Claims Framework V3.1
  • The myBetterCotton portal and the online claims approval process
  • Claims monitoring and compliance
  • Live Retailer and Brand Member survey on the future of claims
To read the latest version of the Better Cotton Claims Framework, click here.
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US Cotton Connections: Better Cotton Members Join Quarterway Cotton Growers to Learn About Regenerative Cotton Systems

Joe Morphet on July 31, 2023

Photo credit: Better Cotton/Katrina McArdle. Location: Plainview, Texas, USA, 2023. Description: Better Cotton Members, staff and farmers walking through sorghum
Photo credit: Karen Wynne

By Karen Wynne, US Programme Coordinator at Better Cotton

Recently, Quarterway Cotton Growers hosted Better Cotton Members for a tour of a cotton gin, farms and processors in Plainview, Texas. Representatives from brands, mills, merchants, civil society, university extension services and supporting businesses joined Better Cotton growers in the field to learn more about sustainable and regenerative cotton production systems in West Texas.

Representatives from ECOM also discussed their role as a merchant in the supply chain, highlighting their sustainability initiatives, including a USDA Climate Smart Partnership with Quarterway.

We are grateful for the opportunity to participate in the conversations that took place among participants and share the work that ECOM USA is doing to promote climate-smart cotton. We are proud of Quarterway Cotton Growers for the focus they place on regenerative cotton production that supports the long-term viability of the industry and the health of the land. They truly are a leading group of cotton growers and ECOM USA is proud to offer their cotton to buyers around the world.

Courtney Hodges, USA Sustainability Platform Manager, ECOM

Texas produces more cotton than any other state in the US and West Texas produces the bulk of that. Coming from Alabama, where it can rain 60 inches in a year, I am infinitely curious about growing a crop in a place that gets more like 10-20 inches of annual rainfall, sometimes without irrigation. The types of crops that can be grown and how they are managed are so different. It was great to get out in the field with Better Cotton Members and Farmers to understand the complex set of decisions that growers need to make every season, and how the weather can ruin their plans.

Growers in the region are raising a variety of crops in addition to cotton. Corn, wheat, milo (otherwise known as grain sorghum), sorghum silage and hybrids, and millet are commonly grown in Hale County. Many cotton growers also raise cattle and incorporate grazing into their crop rotations. A pickle plant, a hybrid seed company, and dairies in the region all provide opportunities for more diverse cropping systems that include cucumbers, small grains, and livestock feed. In addition, manure from dairies returns to fields as a local source of fertiliser that reduces the use of synthetic inputs. We often talk about circularity in theory; this tour gave us the opportunity to dig into one example of its practical application.

Photo credit: Better Cotton/Katrina McArdle. Location: Plainview, Texas, USA, 2023. Description: Better Cotton Members, staff and growers listening to farming operation presentation

This diversification is key for pest and soil management by creating above and below-ground habitats for beneficial species, interrupting pest life cycles, and improving nutrient cycling. It also provides alternatives in years when the cotton crop is lost due to severe weather such as heavy rain, hail, or drought, which are not uncommon in West Texas.

Quarterway growers are experimenting with practices and systems to improve soil health, water use, and overall efficiency. They are reducing fuel consumption with more efficient equipment. Many are cover cropping with wheat, rye, or triticale, and then planting into crop residue to minimise wind erosion and increase soil cover. Others are modifying row spacing to increase yield per plant, reduce seed costs, and improve water use efficiency, or installing drip irrigation for even more targeted water use. These improvements can require significant up-front investment in new technologies or unproven practices; while they may pay off in the long run there is a lot of risk involved. Quarterway growers are taking those risks and comparing notes on what works best.

You can hear directly from Quarterway Cotton Growers in this video from the Soil Health Institute. We’d like to extend our thanks to Todd Straley, the growers at Quarterway and everyone else involved in organising such an insightful trip.

Be sure to register here for our mailing list to receive updates on Better Cotton’s activities in the US and follow the Better Cotton events page to register for future field events.

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Better Cotton Calls for Alignment on EU Greenwashing Proposals

Joe Morphet on July 27, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Khaula Jamil Location: Rahim Yar Khan, Punjab, Pakistan, 2019. Description: Cotton Plant

Better Cotton has submitted feedback on the European Union’s proposal for a Directive on the Substantiation and Communication of Explicit Environmental Claims (Green Claims Directive) and called for clarity on its remit amongst a suite of new laws.

The proposed directive, published in March, sets out common criteria by which companies would be required to substantiate environmental claims. Products and services must, under this law, be accompanied by accurate and verifiable information on their sustainability credentials.

The EU has introduced a suite of legislative proposals to address the adverse impacts of the textile industry. Amongst other things, they have been designed to safeguard both consumers and businesses against misleading practices, described as ‘greenwashing’. A rise in greenwashing has caused uncertainty in society about the authenticity of company sustainability claims, hindering a consumer’s ability to make informed purchasing decisions.

Better Cotton welcomes the EU’s proposed directive, believing that there is a strong need for clear guidance on how claims are communicated to standardise industry practice and put an end to greenwashing.

One of the pillars of the Better Cotton Standard System is its Claims Framework, which was created through a multi-stakeholder consultation process and is subject to an annual review.

Through its Claims Framework, Better Cotton supports eligible members to communicate their commitment to Better Cotton in an accurate and credible way.

The opportunity for Better Cotton Members to communicate their investment in Better Cotton to consumers strengthens their commitment to the organisation’s farm-level programmes which seek social, environmental and economic improvements for cotton farmers and farming communities.

It is because of the multifaceted nature of Better Cotton’s operations that the organisation is supportive of the EU’s decision not to limit claim substantiation to just one standard methodology, such as the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) or Life Cycle Assessment (LCA).

Whilst such a mechanism is effective, it would fail to encompass all of the complex, interconnected aspects of cotton production, therefore jeopardising a company’s ability to make claims about its commitment to more sustainable cotton.

Flexibility will be instrumental to ensuring substantiation methods are adapted to the wide array of impact categories and practices covered by schemes, and the variability in operating contexts found across sectors and materials. Maintaining flexibility is the only way to favour a just transition across the world and enhance sustainable livelihoods.

Lisa Ventura, Public Affairs Manager, Better Cotton

The role of the Green Claims Directive in relation to likeminded legislation is also addressed in Better Cotton’s feedback. Specifically, the organisation has called for clarity and alignment on the purpose of the directive comparative to the proposal for the Directive on Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition (Empowering Consumers Directive), which was introduced in March 2022.

For example, it is currently unclear whether sustainability labels, in addition to environmental labels, would need to comply only with the Empowering Consumers Directive, or whether these would be covered under the Green Claims Directive.

Better Cotton welcomes the EU’s leadership in driving efforts to standardise requirements on sustainability communications and is open to supporting authorities as they refine proposed legislation following their request for input.

To read Better Cotton’s feedback submission, click here
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Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association Forge New Strategic Partnership in Egypt

Joe Morphet on July 24, 2023

Photo Credit: Rehab ElDalil/UNIDO Egypt Location: Damietta, Egypt. 2018. Description: Safeya has been working as a cotton picker for the past 30 years. With the recent collaborations & developments she hopes that the cotton industry in Egypt thrives, as well as her income.

Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association (CEA), the organisation responsible for promoting and protecting Egyptian cotton worldwide, have announced a new strategic partnership to expand the Better Cotton programme in Egypt.

The programme was first launched in 2020 by the Egyptian Cotton Project, implemented by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) and funded by the Italian Agency for Development Cooperation and International Islamic Trade Finance Corporation (ITFC). This collaboration aims to further enhance the sustainability and quality of Egyptian cotton production while ensuring fair working conditions for farmers.

Egyptian cotton is renowned globally for its exceptional quality, softness, and durability. With a rich history dating back to the 19th century, it has become a symbol of luxury and excellence in the textile industry. However, in recent years, challenges such as climate change, water scarcity, and fluctuating market demands have posed significant threats to the sustainability of Egyptian cotton farming.

Recognising the need for proactive measures to safeguard the future of Egyptian cotton, CEA has joined forces with Better Cotton in Egypt. Through this renewed strategic partnership, both parties will work together to expand the implementation of sustainable farming techniques, provide further training and support to farmers, and ensure compliance with rigorous environmental and social standards. By adopting these practices, Egyptian cotton farmers will be supported in reducing water consumption, decreasing chemical pesticide usage, and improving soil health, ultimately leading to more sustainable and resilient cotton production.

Furthermore, this partnership will enable CEA to leverage Better Cotton’s extensive network of industry stakeholders, including brands, retailers, and textile mills committed to sourcing sustainable cotton. This collaboration will further facilitate increased market access for Egyptian cotton products, ensuring a fair return for farmers and supporting the growth of the Egyptian textile industry.

We are excited about this strategic partnership with Better Cotton in Egypt. By combining our expertise and resources, we can drive positive change in Egyptian cotton farming practices and secure a sustainable future for our industry. This collaboration aligns perfectly with our vision to globally authenticate the legacy of Egyptian cotton.

Khaled Schuman, Executive Director, Cotton Egypt Association

Egypt’s cotton is globally renowned, and our renewed strategic partnership with Cotton Egypt Association will allow us to build on our work to make cotton farming in the country a more climate resilient, environmentally friendly and responsible activity. We look forward to working with CEA to help Egyptian cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment.

Alan McClay, Chief Executive Officer, Better Cotton

Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association are confident that this strategic partnership will contribute to the long-term viability and competitiveness of Egyptian cotton, while also addressing the growing demand for sustainable and ethically produced textiles.

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Climate Action: How Our New Principles and Criteria Prioritises Mitigation and Adaptation

Joe Morphet on July 20, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Eugénie Bacher. Harran, Turkey 2022. Better Cotton Farm Worker Ali Gümüştop, 52.
Photo credit: Nathanael Dominici

By Nathanael Dominici, Climate Change Manager at Better Cotton

Agriculture, which accounts for over 10% of the world’s greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, has a huge potential to positively influence global GHG mitigation strategies. Reducing the amount of greenhouse gases in our atmosphere is crucial in limiting the impacts of climate change, and agricultural sectors such as cotton have a key role to play in this, from reducing the emissions released by pesticides and fertilisers to storing atmospheric carbon through forests and soil.

Cotton communities are already being severely affected by climate change, and will continue to feel this impact as the climate crisis continues. This means that whilst GHG mitigation is essential, the cotton sector must also support cotton farmers and workers to develop climate adaptation strategies to minimise the impact of climate change on their farms and better prepare for climate shocks.

Consequently, helping farmers to adopt low-carbon practices and reinforcing their resilience to climate change whilst improving their livelihoods are critical priorities for Better Cotton, with our 2030 Strategy outlining our target of reducing greenhouse gas emissions per tonne of Better Cotton lint produced by 50% from the 2017 baseline.

In order to acknowledge these challenges and support our farmers in meeting this target, in the recent revision of our Principles and Criteria (P&C) we introduced a more explicit focus on climate change. The P&C, which lays out the global definition of Better Cotton, was updated earlier this year to ensure that it remains an effective tool to drive continuous improvement and deliver sustainability impact at field level.

The revised document, version 3.0, recognises that, given the importance of addressing climate change, measures for both adaptation and mitigation need to be understood as cross-cutting priorities, incorporated across all Principles.

To that end, it includes a new Criterion in the Management Principle, requiring Producers to get acquainted with how climate change is likely to affect their farming operations. We provide guidance on what they can do to adapt and build resilience and, in turn, where their main leverage to mitigate climate change lies. They can then integrate this knowledge into their decision-making around farming practices and beyond.

Recognising the cross-cutting character of the topic, practices that help farming communities adapt and build resilience, as well as reduce their own contribution to climate change, have been mainstreamed across all Principles. For example, climate-smart agricultural practices such as effective water use, increasing crop diversity, leaving no bare soils, reducing the use of synthetic fertilisers, effective integrated pest management strategies and non-deforestation are all core in the Principles around Natural Resources and Crop Protection.

On top of this, the P&C v.3.0 also incorporates a focus on climate change’s impacts on farming communities, and aims to ensure a just transition, where farmers’ and workers’ rights and protection are prioritised. As a result, we have included a new Principle to build and strengthen sustainable and resilient livelihoods. More focus is also given to the effects of climate change on the daily life of workers, with strengthened requirements around occupational health and safety in the Decent Work Principle that aim to prevent and address the effects of heat stress, including rest breaks with access to shade and potable water.

Lastly, acknowledging that women and girls are more vulnerable to climate change impacts and are also often the ones implementing and feeling the effects of mitigation and adaptation measures, the revised P&C also strengthens its approach to increasing gender equality. Keep an eye out for the next blog in our P&C revision series to find out more about this, and head to this page to read more about the revision.

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Better Cotton Conference 2023: Q&A With Alexander Ellebrecht From Chainpoint on Lessons Learned From Traceability Pilots 

Joe Morphet on July 18, 2023

Photo credit: Alexander Ellebrecht

One of the four key themes of the Better Cotton Conference 2023 was Data and Traceability – reflecting a key priority for the organisation ahead of the launch of our traceability solution at the end of 2023. With the goal of tracing cotton grown in over 36 countries and sold in over 50, representing 20% of global cotton, the conference provided a great opportunity to bring together sector experts to discuss the complexities of such a significant project.

In order to understand how to successfully roll out traceability, we have run several pilots across a range of countries, so during the conference we brought together representatives from some of the organisations who have been central to these pilots to explore key learnings and challenges. Jacky Broomhead, Senior Traceability Programme Manager at Better Cotton, was joined by Erin Klett from Verité, Mahmut Pekin from the Louis Dreyfus Company, Anna Rönngard from Textile Genesis, Martha Willis from C&A, Abdala Bernardo from SAN-JFS, and Alexander Ellebrecht from Chainpoint.

After the panel, we sat down with Alexander Ellebrecht, Manager, Business Development at Chainpoint, a software provider with extensive experience in value chains for non-profits that has supported Better Cotton in two of these traceability pilots, to hear about his key takeaways from the session.

Why is traceability a growing priority for the cotton sector?

A range of different perspectives were represented in our panel, from brands and software providers such as us to ginners and traders. From each perspective, the pilots – and traceability in general – offer somewhat different advantages. Traceability provides supply chain actors with better data on their sourcing relationships, allowing them to work on continuously improving. This is a two-way street – based on hard data about performance upstream, better feedback and training can be provided, in service of their progress.

How can organisations incentivise their supply chains to take up traceability?

A topic that was mentioned multiple times is communication. Supply chains are complex and, by definition, made up of different actors with different incentives, often in different countries. One of the panellists explained how, during their trial project in India, they held calls with stakeholders from different tiers in the supply chain, to explain the purpose and importance of piloting, highlighting upcoming legislation as important context.

Communication over multiple tiers is quite rare in most supply chains, but this was successful because it was held from an incentive perspective, rather than a sustainability perspective. Not explaining traceability as something we must do because we want to be more sustainable, but rather as an opportunity that offers benefits to all involved.

This is a perspective that we embrace at Chainpoint – one of our key priorities is creating a business case for every actor, throughout the supply chain. That revolves primarily around earning money, rather than increasing sustainability or improving working conditions. Changing the world for the better is often achieved best when pairing idealism with pragmatism, knowing that mere idealism is a meagre basis for durable change in behavioural patterns. This highlights the importance of the collaborative model that Better Cotton embraces.

Photo credit: Dennis Bouman/Better Cotton. Location: Better Cotton Conference, Amsterdam, 2023. Description: From left to right- Martha Willis, C&A; Mahmut Pekin, Louis Dreyfus Company; Alexander Ellebrecht, Chainpoint; Anna Ronngard,Textile Genesis; and Erin Klett, Verité.

What other lessons were learned during the pilots?

Besides offering incentives to all involved and ample communication, local and changing circumstances need to be taken into account. That is one of the reasons for the existence of no fewer than four pilots in different countries, for two of which ChainPoint was the digital platform partner. There is no silver bullet regarding traceability and local circumstances will define your solution to a large extent. A high degree of flexibility is required from both the organisations involved and the software they use. There is – and will always be – a gap between theory and practice. It is only by keeping your ears open and making adaptions where necessary that you will be able to bridge that gap.

How important is the role of technology in traceability?

The key challenge with technology is often not related to delivery – about which the panel’s feedback was positive across all the pilots – but rather how we use it. Being able to use the platforms intuitively and have them work alongside existing data systems and processes is key to the technology’s success – we need technology to be as frictionless as possible. Any system or software ideally reduces the administrative burden on those using it, rather than the opposite. Ultimately, the goal should be to overcome the challenges we’ve discussed and create a universally applicable framework for data collection and reporting.

A final key learning is that many supply chain actors, especially suppliers, are quite tech-savvy. It is important to realise that while there are significant challenges in the adoption of any new technology or data collection process, we shouldn’t underestimate people with a clear and common goal and the right incentives to get there.

To find out more about the key highlights from the Better Cotton Conference 2023, head to this link.
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Supporting Sustainable Cotton with Pakistan’s Government of Punjab

Joe Morphet on July 17, 2023

Photo credit: Communications Department, Govt of Punjab. Location: Punjab, Pakistan, 2023. Description: Third from left – Dr Muhammad Anjum Ali, Director General, Agriculture Extension, Agriculture Department, Government of Punjab; fourth from left – Mr Iftikhar Ali Sahoo, Secretary, Agriculture Department, Government of Punjab; third from right – Hina Fouzia, Director for Pakistan, Better Cotton.

Better Cotton has entered into a collaborative agreement with the Government of Punjab’s Agriculture Department, in Pakistan, to advance the production of more sustainable cotton in the province.

The five-year ‘Commitment of Cooperation’ stems from the government body’s desire to develop a science-based, internationally-linked agriculture sector capable of satisfying demand for food, feed and fibre.

As a lynchpin of the country’s economy, cotton is one commodity that will be integral to achieving this ambition. As such, the Agriculture Department is to develop a strategy focused on scaling the production of more sustainable cotton.

As of the 2021-22 season, Pakistan is the third-largest producer of Better Cotton globally. Almost half a million cotton farmers hold a Better Cotton license and have collectively produced more than 680,000 tonnes of the material for use by Retail and Brand Members.

The Agriculture Department sought Better Cotton’s expertise and support to help ensure resources and finances are fed down to the field-level, benefitting both farming communities and the environment.

Working closely with the government body, Better Cotton will help ensure participating farmers align with its Principles & Criteria (P&C) and commit to measuring and reporting results.

The Agriculture Department will, meanwhile, establish a timeline for implementation to ensure its allocation of resources and plan for mainstreaming the production of more sustainable cotton is futureproof, particularly in the face of climate change and its subsequent impacts.

The initial agreement is effective immediately and will conclude in June 2028.

Better Cotton has helped cotton farmers in Pakistan produce more sustainable cotton since 2009, improving the livelihoods of approximately 1.5 million smallholder farmers along the way. We applaud the Government of Punjab’s Agriculture Department for committing to a more sustainable agriculture sector and stand committed to helping their mission.

Hina Fouzia, Country Director for Pakistan, Better Cotton
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Better Cotton Signs UN Pledge for Traceability and Transparency

Joe Morphet on July 12, 2023

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Seun Adatsi. Location: Kolondieba, Mali. 2019. Description: Freshly-picked cotton.

Better Cotton has signed the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) Sustainability Pledge ahead of the launch of its Traceability Solution at the end of 2023.

The Sustainability Pledge is an open-source suite of policy recommendations, guidelines and standards that enable industry actors to authenticate their sustainability claims. The aim of the Pledge is to create a Community of Practice that would together develop traceability and transparency as key enablers for sustainability and circularity.

The UNECE launched the framework to convene credible solution providers in knowledge exchange, with the belief that companies, academics and topic experts can collectively advance supply chain transparency by engaging in open discourse. By recognising legitimate tools and projects that aim to advance industry traceability, the pledge stands to benefit policymakers, companies, workers and consumers alike.

We are signing UNECE’s Sustainability Pledge not only to affirm our commitment to improving traceability and transparency in Better Cotton supply chains, but also in support of traceability and the use of more credible sustainability claims across the industry.

Alia Malik, Senior Director of Data and Traceability at Better Cotton

Once we know the provenance of the clothes that we buy, and the path they have travelled in global value chains, then we can make informed decisions as consumers about the sustainability claims of those goods. We welcome Better Cotton’s pledge and call on other players to join and make traceability and sustainability the new normal in the textile industry.

Elisabeth Türk, Director, Economic Cooperation and Trade at UNECE

As a signatory, Better Cotton joins more than 90 businesses to have committed to the pledge, including Inditex, Vivienne Westwood, WWF, Retraced and FibreTrace.

Better Cotton’s submission accounts for the development of its Traceability Solution, which has been developed as part of its 2030 Strategy. With over 2,500 Members across the world, Better Cotton is well placed to develop a solution that could be scaled globally.

It will offer Retailer and Brand Members the opportunity to verify the country of origin of the Physical Better Cotton in their products and enable farmers and suppliers to continue accessing increasingly regulated international value chains. All this will support Better Cotton’s work to improve lives and safeguard livelihoods in cotton farming communities.

The development of Better Cotton’s Traceability Solution has been based on extensive consultation with over 1,500 stakeholders including Suppliers, Members, and industry consultants. In signing the Sustainability Pledge, Better Cotton has outlined key actions and a timeframe within which the solution will be launched. A phased roll-out will follow, enabling all supply chain actors the opportunity to align with the new chain of custody requirements that will enable traceability before 2025.

The fashion and textile sectors face increasing regulatory pressure, particularly around ‘greenwashing’ – the use of unsubstantiated claims to deceive consumers about a company or product’s sustainability credentials. Better Cotton’s soon-to-be-launched Traceability Solution will serve to verify the provenance and chronicle the lifecycle of cotton, starting at a country-level with the aim to improve the granularity of data in the future.

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Geographical Mapping Pilot Launched in Pakistan

Joe Morphet on July 7, 2023

Better Cotton works extensively in Pakistan, but traditionally the data we have collected about farmers, producers and partners has not been designed to accurately map their location and activities. This has resulted in supply chain inefficiencies and a lack of new opportunities for those involved in the sector.

A new pilot scheme aims to improve mapping data and thereby rationalise country programming – we sat down with Muhammad Qadeer ul Hussnain, Digital Agriculture Manager at Better Cotton, to find out all about it.

Photo credit: Better Cotton/Muhammad Ishtiaq. Description: Muhammad Qadeer ul Hussnain.

Can you give us an overview of the pilot?

Pakistan has one of the largest numbers of farmers of all Better Cotton-producing countries, spread over 22 districts in two provinces, organised into more than 125 Producer Units (PUs), and managed by six partners. As Better Cotton’s programme has developed, new and increasingly complex questions have emerged.

Historically, we’ve relied on tabular data for answers, but now we are adding a geographic dimension to it as well. As a result, Better Cotton is running a pilot to map three districts. Reflecting advances in geographical information system technology, remote sensing and ground data, we opted to turn to geographical mapping for the first time.

The concept was formulated in December 2022, work began to map the districts in question in March, and the pilot will end in July. It is providing customised maps of the three districts resulting in a visual representation of the study area, highlighting factors like the location of the growers, ginners and partners.

What were the pilot’s origins?

Our Pakistan country management team wanted to better assess the organisation’s reach, be able to identify shifting trends in cotton cultivation, and significantly improve data quality. Data is the bedrock of programmes based on numbers, and with different reporting methods and a lack of clarity, we wanted to introduce a system with stronger checks and balances.

For example, we know the districts where farmers work with us, but we lack both exact numbers and the location of those growers who aren’t partnered with the initiative. As a result, we weren’t able to work out why a farmer doesn’t fall under the Better Cotton umbrella. Are they too far from the programme partner in the district? Are they part of a neglected minority? It was previously impossible to tell.

Photo credit: Better Cotton/Muhammad Umar Iqbal. Description: Better Cotton Pakistan team working on geographical mapping pilot.

How did you implement the pilot?

This pilot relies heavily on open-source tools, technologies and data sources. Using publicly available material from the Survey of Pakistan (SoP), Open Street Map (OSM), the Election Commission and local government, we’ve created base maps to locate villages where Learning Groups (LGs) are formed.

For ginners, we’ve taken our existing data, like addresses and locations, and plotted these coordinates on the map. Further analysis has been employed to calculate the distances of LGs from the ginners. Laid onto this is satellite imagery, which provides much higher-resolution data and is good for crop mapping. Using an algorithm that highlights the location of fields and references data over five years, we were able to work out where cotton is being repeatedly grown.

Changing how we measure and evaluate our reach in the three pilot districts has resulted in a different sort of thinking. The data creates lots of new possibilities in terms of what we can measure, questions we can ask (particularly of our partners and their activities), as well as potential supply chain benefits. We also need to think about how to realign assessment processes.

What are your initial findings?

The findings are still being collated, but early indications are that the mapping process will provide valuable suggestions to improve country programming, partner management, evaluation and assessment. This, in turn, will result in efficiency gains, cost efficiencies and better programme management.

Our new maps highlight where cotton cultivation has dropped (and so investment does not represent value for money), and where there is a mismatch in partner operations. It also offers potential improvements to the supply chain, for example highlighting to growers the locations of their closest ginners.

Photo credit: Better Cotton/Muhammad Qadeer ul Hussnain. Description: Sample of geographical mapping.

What are the pilot’s longer-term goals?

This is a tiny pilot project, but one that may be able to be replicated globally. We’ve devised a methodology that works and we’d like to scale this up. What we’ve created is applicable to the rest of Pakistan, while other countries could use a similar approach.

We plan to develop an atlas of Better Cotton, mapping working areas with programme partners, growers and ginners. In turn, this will highlight the actual scale and reach of our operations, while also offering new and improved opportunities to partners and helping improve supply chain coordination.

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