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Better Cotton Continues Expansion in Africa with Benin Programme Launch

Photo Credit: Better Cotton. Better Cotton COO, Lena Staafgard, sat alongside Maurel Adonon, representing the Permanent Secretary of the AIC, Luc Abadassi.

Better Cotton has launched a new programme in Benin to support the production of more sustainable cotton in West Africa.

The programme will aim to engage more than 200,000 smallholder cotton farmers in order to embed sustainable farming practices, improve livelihoods and help them adapt to the effects of climate change.

As Better Cotton’s presence across Africa continues to grow, so too does the movement towards more sustainable cotton production. There is incredible appetite for change on the continent and we’ll work with partners new and old to leverage that.

The Interprofessional Cotton Association of Benin (AIC) will serve as a Strategic Partner for the Better Cotton Programme. The AIC manages both farming and cotton ginning bodies and more broadly facilitates relations with the sector’s stakeholders across Benin.

As Strategic Partner, the AIC will lead the establishment and implementation of an impactful Better Cotton Programme and help drive engagement with the country’s farming communities and other stakeholders.

The start of a Better Cotton Programme in Benin is a matter of national initiative supported by the entire cotton sector and managed by the Interprofessional Cotton Association. The implementation of this programme will help our valiant producers strengthen their resilience by introducing more sustainable production practices.

The agreement was formalised at a multistakeholder meeting in Cotonou, Benin, on 8 October where both organisations met to discuss the opportunities and challenges in cotton farming and agriculture more broadly.

Benin is Africa’s second largest cotton producing country after Mali. In the 2022/23 season, it produced more than 580,000 metric tonnes (MT) of cotton, according to government figures.

Better Cotton operates programmes across Africa in Mozambique, Egypt, Mali and Côte d’Ivoire.

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Earthsight: Better Cotton Community Engagement Report Summary and Action Plan Update

In April 2024, Better Cotton was the focus of a report, published by the environmental non-profit, Earthsight, which highlighted issues in the cotton industry of Brazil’s Matopiba region.

Better Cotton commissioned an independent consultant1 to investigate potential non-compliances on selected farms2. We subsequently published our statement and summary of findings, which did not detect any breach of the Better Cotton Standard on the licensed farms in question.

In June 2024, Better Cotton was notified that Earthsight would release a “second output”. This specific content was not shared with Better Cotton. Instead, Earthsight contacted us prior to its release for clarity on various points which we have detailed in this document.

In August 2024, Better Cotton received the Community Engagement Report from Imaflora, the independent consultant it had hired to conduct this study. In this document we summarise their findings and how they will inform our action plan.

To reiterate, we welcome scrutiny from civil society organisations. Reports like Earthsight’s help identify instances where improvements can be made. We once again extend an invite to Earthsight to engage with us to learn more about our standard system and the approach we take at field level.

Our mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive while protecting and restoring the environment, thereby delivering progressive, measurable improvements at field level. Our model focuses on impact, scale and industry uptake to enable all cotton farmers to transition to more sustainable production.

We recognise that challenges exist in many of the countries in which we operate. It is only with action and perseverance in the most challenging circumstances for cotton farming that transformative change at scale can be made, and we are proud of the progress we have helped deliver globally with our dedicated network of partners and members.

In the spirit of transparency, the document below contains further details on our action plan, clarifications and follow-up explanations to our previously issued statement, as well as information about elements of the Better Cotton Standard System.

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Earthsight: Better Cotton Community Engagement Report Summary and Action Plan Update

Updated 12 September 2024
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  1. Peterson was commissioned to conduct an investigation that would assess potential non-compliances against the Better Cotton and ABR standards, while exploring broader issues pervasive within Brazil’s cotton sector and their scope for impact on Better Cotton licensed farms.
  2. There are currently 33 farms licensed by Better Cotton for these two groups, but of these, only three were licensed by Better Cotton during the timeframes in question.
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Large Farm Week 2024

In late August 2024, Better Cotton held its inaugural Large Farm Week in Türkiye. The four-day affair was an eventful in-person convening of our large farm partners in cotton.

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Certification: Why Better Cotton is Making the Transition 

Photo Credit: Better Cotton/Baran Vardar. Location: Harran, Turkey 2022. Description: Cotton field.
Photo credit: Jay Louvion/Better Cotton. Description: Alan McClay

By Alan McClay, CEO at Better Cotton 

As the world’s largest cotton sustainability initiative, Better Cotton’s goal is to drive significant, lasting impact as we support the production of more equitable and sustainable cotton. In just 15 years, we have aligned more than a fifth of global cotton production with our standards by balancing rigorous assurance with an adaptable framework that works for farmers in various contexts.  

Our commitment to continuous improvement is a cornerstone of our strategic plans. That’s why our approach has always been about balancing robust assurance with fair costs for farmers and members. As part of this commitment, we have started the journey to become a certification scheme, ensuring that we meet new and emerging legislative requirements while maintaining a robust and credible standard.  

This approach, which places emphasis on the use of third parties to conduct assessments and make certification decisions, complements our existing assurance processes by adding a layer of independence and credibility. 

It is encouraging to see momentum build in the external legislative landscape. Key EU regulations such as the Directive on Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition (ECGT) align with our goals, and provide the additional impetus needed to advance our certification efforts.  

At this pivotal moment, we see third-party certification bodies as essential to bolstering the credibility of our work and amplifying the good work of cotton farmers globally. Our transition to certification, combined with evolving traceability capabilities, will not only strengthen the value chain, but also increase demand for more sustainable cotton.  

This journey will culminate in a new product label, enabling our network of retailers and brands to proudly showcase their commitment to sustainable cotton production. From farm to consumer, we are committed to catalysing the entire sector, supporting continuous improvement, and advancing the lives of cotton farmers worldwide.  

The success of this transition will be predicated on active engagement from all members across the supply chain. Whether you are a retailer, brand, or one of many valued supply chain actors, we are counting on your support to turn this into a reality. 

In the coming weeks and months, we will conduct public consultations on some of the changes to our assurance approaches and provide updates to our Chain of Custody and Claims Framework.  

Watch this space for more information on our journey to certification from our new Head of Certification, Tom Owen.  
 
Thank you for your continued support as we embark on this important new chapter in Better Cotton’s journey.  

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Better Cotton Conference 2024: Interview With Ali Ertuğrul from USB Certification 

Photo credit: Evronas/Better Cotton. Location: Better Cotton Conference, Istanbul, Türkiye, 2024. Description: Ali Ertuğrul, Technical and Quality Manager for Textiles and Recycling at USB Certification, at the Better Cotton Conference 2024.

In June, we held our annual Better Cotton Conference in Istanbul, Türkiye, bringing together over 400 attendees online and in-person for two days of highly insightful discussions on how to accelerate impact at field level.  

The conference wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our sponsors. This year, our headline sponsor was USB Certification, a global auditing and certification provider which aims to increase customers’ competitiveness and sustainability through national and international accreditations. It is also an approved third-party verifier for Better Cotton, authorised to carry out assessments against our Chain of Custody Standard. 

During the conference, we sat down with Ali Ertuğrul, Technical and Quality Manager for Textiles and Recycling at USB Certification, to discuss why events like the Better Cotton Conference are so important for the company.  

He explained USB Certification’s journey in the cotton sector, stressing the responsibility the organisation has to share the challenges they have faced and the lessons they have learned through their experiences with other actors in the sector in order to support collaborative change.  

He also highlighted the importance of centring farmers in storytelling to increase understanding of the real-world impact of the decisions that are taken downstream in the supply chain:  

People’s lives are at stake. The environment is at stake. So whatever we do, whatever action we take, we have to focus on this in the everyday work that we’re doing. And by we, I mean not only certification bodies, but also programme owners, brands, retailers, all the supply chain actors and also farmers and producers.

Lastly, he emphasised the role of policy in driving positive change in the cotton sector. “Policy changes are important because we, as private sector participants, can only do so much,” he noted, expressing his optimism about the growth of due diligence directives across the world.

To hear what Ali had to say in full, check out the video below.  

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